Here is the completed photo essay on building a veldtschoen-or stitchdown- style boot:
This is not a perfect example, but I'll point out some general aspects of the veldtschoen:
This is a very casual construction, especially without mechanical assists used in factory production and it has a distinct look that exaggerates the shape of the toe.
Construction:
The primary feature is the upper being flanged out to create a shelf for the upper to be sewn to a midsole- sometime referred to as a runner. In most constructions, a particular lasting pincer is used, which has a hammer to lever over the last bottom and pull it tight. Without this assist it is extremely difficult to get the vamp area tight to the last- even after using some questionable aids....
The last for a veldtschoen should have a distinct feather edge all round, with a full arch. When machine stitching the midsole on, it is desirable to have a bevel all round the feather edge of the last. As in the photos, the shoe is presented to the outsole stitcher "bottoms-up". The work table presses against the shoe upper and the curved awl passes through a hole in it, which is set back between 1/16th and 1/8th inch from the leading edge. The bevel in the last allows the work table to press the upper into the void. This offsets the distance of the awl passing through the hole, placing the stitch right at the crease. The photos don't illustrate this adequately and will need to be supplemented with illustrations later.
Aesthetics:
Depending on the leathers chosen, some construction details- both desirable and not- will show through in the end.
Many shoemakers employ side linings in both cemented and sewn footwear- this is not very practical in this application and soft leathers are going to give it a "slipper-ish" look to the way the material holds the foot. It is not unusual for Veldtschoens to be unlined.
Other leather choices will certainly offer different results- I will certainly build this way again. Given the leathers I go back to time and time again, my inclination is to focus on my previously favored variation.
I hope you find this informative. Comments- whether for clarification- or correction- are welcome.
