Gunton Lasts, Items For sale and others

I have a few pairs of shoes in progress on my Gunton last, which has given me an opportunity to analyze them in relation to multiple feet - all different sizes, but still useful information. Through this, I think I'm well on my way to resolving it's issues. This picture shows the dismantled lasts with early stages of modification:


These are pretty massive changes, made more complicated by the V-cut hinges. If budget wasn't a concern, I would have liked the opportunity to remake the model from scratch, as every last I make is an improvement on my knowledge and execution of last design.
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At the 3311 Carroll Open Studio Day, I talked to a lot of people about what I'm working on. I think I've finally found one fit model for the new last I've been developing - I still need one or two more!
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Visitors to the studios got to see the leather neckties I make, as well as some necklaces. The listings for them on Etsy expired prior to the the open studios - these are back up and running. These are first run of samples on the new materials, so they are being sold at a lower price of $35 - the next ones will be in the $50-$60 range.

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When I come across interesting shapes and patterns, I like to take pictures for reference and inspiration. Walking around recently, I came across this utility pole - I don't know what I'll do with it yet, but it's neat:

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Since I mentioned it in the last post, I thought I'd share a couple of picture. of the hat I knitted - I'm working on a new one with variations and a different yarn:



I found the pattern on Ravelry - it is designed by these folks.
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Well, I have to go do some work - have a good week!

Happy Halloween!

I have been pretty busy the last couple of weeks, and it isn't stopping. The highlight has been a trip up to Wisconsin for the annual meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers Company, where once a year, shoemakers, shoe historians and enthusiasts meet up to talk, share information and hang out.

The meetings are always fantastic, as it is the one place I get to be surrounded by others engaged in the trade or practicing the craft - which is truly inspiring. Unfortunately I've only been able to make it to the gatherings that are hosted by a friend just over the border to the north - the last two were in entirely different parts of the country, so I really, really needed to make the connection this year.

I am very happy that I was able to attend this year, plus I was pleasantly surprised when I found that three of my former students were in attendance!

In the studio, I've let a lot of non-shoe and leather projects invade, so I've been doing some organizing and paring down to regain my focus- the Cordwainers meeting has me pumped to work!

What else have I been working on? Well, my major projects are still in development, so they aren't making any money yet- and won't for quite a while. I am working on a few commissions, but they aren't enough to pay the bills I've been accumulating, so I'm out there looking for a job- hopefully there's at least some seasonal work for me.

In my off-time, I've been learning to knit! I've always liked knits and fibers, and a number of my students have incorporated knitting, crochet and weaving into their footwear projects, plus my sister's been knitting for a while. It was only a matter of time before I gave it a try.... Over the summer (or was it late spring?) I took a class, but I put it aside until I got interested in a project. When I was helping my sister find some yarn, I found a hat pattern I thought was pretty cool. The hat is just about done and my hands are sore... I'm actually looking forward to the next project!

I'm thinking of writing up a blurb describing my aesthetic influences and interests to incorporate into my about page and I'm digging out some more old work that might make appearances in the portfolio pages. Don't forget to check out some of the blogs of interest in the sidebar- there's some pretty cool stuff! New to the list is the Blog from shoemakers CarreDucker- they describe a lot of traditional shoemaking techniques, and have mentioned a former student who is doing some amazing stuff in grad school.

I have to get to the studio now - I hope to see some of you next week. Here's a picture of a shoe I made several years ago when I was playing around with variations on "monkey boots":

Site Design - done for now

I continued to tweak the site into Monday, and got some kind of satisfaction on the title and background image combination. This is a happy medium - because the background is fixed and the blog content adjusts to browser window size - it will change from user to user.

This setup will stay for a while (not including planned additions to the pages tab). The next couple of weeks are going to be busy, but hopefully I'll be able post some new (or new old) stuff.

P.S.: I still need fit models! Please check out this post from September 15th.

New Stuff and Testing Blog Changes

Updated - if you type in www.riotgeer.com - you will now be redirected to the www.riotgeer.blogspot.com !

I'm trying out new looks and layouts, so the blog will change periodically over the weekend.

In new features, I've added a news page below the header - check it out for the latest activities - currently the top item is the 3311 Carroll Open Studios coming up November 7th.

Finally, I've added a few more pieces to the footwear portfolio page. Here's a one of my favorites from Riotgeer Design Co. - the Football Shoe on the Gunton Last:

Open Studio Day, November 7th, 2010

Save the date to visit the artists at 3311 West Carroll:

Pictures From A Train...

I've been out out of town since last week. Here are some pictures I shot with my cell phone on the train from Michigan yesterday morning - the fog made everything eerie and beautiful...

Update September 25, 2010

I've activated some changes that I started working on at the last update, namely the pages feature.

Below the title banner, you will now find links for three pages (more to come!):

Home is the main blog page for navigating form the other pages.

There is now an about me page - I do take on commissions, so feel free to contact me about potential projects!

The final page is the first of some portfolio pages - this one is specifically a footwear portfolio. I will be adding to this with new work, as well as older- as I dig through my archives. The current images are sample sheets showing a variety of works in progress, which I hope you will enjoy. More pages to come will include fashion design, and miscellaneous including ancient history from college.

My search for fit models continues - if you think you are a candidate for being a fit model, please send me an e-mail with "fit model" in the subject.

Fit Models Needed, Happy Accidents and Other Projects

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail attached to this post and site!)

Over the weekend I finished putting together two styles of fitter shoes on the flat last. They were delayed because I need to make some last minute changes to the last after pulling over what was supposed to be the first fitter.


So, I need two to three people to be fit models - from last weeks post:

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width (edit: if you happen to be at a shoe store that uses one- get yourself measured on a ladies Brannock Device). I get about by bicycle and If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address with "fit model" in the topic:

curious@riotgeer.com

I'll continue developing designs for the "collection", but until I can do fit evaluations, the flat last will be put on the backburner. I'm pretty excited about this last, so I'm hoping to get some responses for potential fit models soon.
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I thought I'd share some details on the fitter. I designed the lacing placket on the tied shoe on a whim, and I really like it. I think I can incorporate it into a collection of styles I'm developing for this last:


I like happy accidents that can inspire details in a project. While lacing up the fitter, the lace got twisted and caught on the toe- this could be a neat detail if I can work it into a toe cap or some-such so it is functional:

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Other items:

While I'm setting aside the flat last development until fitting, I'm going to try to make progress on the bike shoe.

I'm also working on some small cut and sew items that I can make up for sale. The small bags got stalled in a big way (ridiculous technical details - blah), but I'm hoping to make some progress while working on other new items.

The leather ties have been languishing in Etsy oblivion - I haven't gotten any feedback on them and it's frustrating. They are kind of stand-alone items right now - they need other similarly styled offerings nearby to grab attention. Something else to figure out - input on how to market them or even other items (related or not) you'd like to see would be greatly appreciated.

That's all for now - time to get to the studio!

Changes to the blog 9-13-10

I've just made some substantial changes to the blog - It's getting pretty crowded in the sidebar, but I think the added stuff might make it interesting/useful.

There is now an e-mail link in the sidebar, to contact me at: curious@riotgeer.com

There is now a sharing link below the posts - Just click on the social media icon of your choice to share it with your friends!

I've made a "pages" link - this is intended more for the future (hopefully soon?) when I want to place information that will be pertinent for longer than the attention span of a blog post.

Deadlines, Samples and Updates

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail associated with this post and site!)

No pretty pictures this post - I've had to put priority on some computer work for the last couple of weeks, so not much time in the studio- I'll be sure to post some of the results.
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The new last and fit models

This week I'll finish the samples on the flat last, so starting this weekend I'll be needing two to three volunteers to try out the new last:

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width. I get about by bicycle - If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address:

curious@riotgeer.com
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Update on the bike shoes

After the previous post I mocked up an insole with fiberglass and epoxy reinforcement. It's been many years since I've experimented with composites, so I was expecting some learning curve.

I need to consult with someone knowledgeable in composites to help nail down the process. In the picture there are significant voids in the laminates and I'm not sure where the problems were introduced. Yes, that is a popsicle stick embedded in the fiberglass:



I'm not at all comfortable with my dust collection system in regards to grinding fiberglass - I'm going to have to put this element on hold until I can solve it.

WIP 8-24-10

I've formed the bike shoe test upper over the last - I need to make a few minor tweaks to the pattern, but I like the way it looks so far:



To provide additional stiffness and protection to the external stiffeners, I applied a few coats of shellac. This is a bit of an experiment - shellac is popular with some vintage bicycle enthusiasts for treating handlebar wrap, and I though it would be a nice addition on this shoe- as it is based on vintage styles. It gives it a nice shine and didn't darken the leather a much as I feared- just a nice warm tone that goes very nicely with the orange leather:


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This is one of the test shoes on the new flat last I'm testing - just a basic slip on with contrast topline binding:


I'm still working on getting the binding consistent, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going to tweak this pattern a bit, plus I have two styles lined up for patterning tomorrow.

Last update and progress on the cycling shoes

Last week I received the new last samples as expected and I've been working working steadily with those. I've also been making significant progress on the bike shoe last and sample shoes. So, kind of a long update!
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I am so far pleased with the pointed flat last (it really needs a new name!) - it seems to only need mild tweaking. I am working on some samples for fitting (more on that after the pictures).



I do need people to test this last on (three, preferably) - size 8. If you are in Chicago and you think you are a good candidate with healthy size 8 feet (6 1/2-ish in mens') please contact me at: erickw (at) riotgeer (dot) com to discuss the particulars. I'll make a dedicated post after I've made some samples up.
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The Guntons' (which I was very excited to work with again) are being vexing - and need some extra work. I like this toe so very much, so hopefully I'll be able to shake out the issues soon.



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The cycling shoe last has been going very well - I made some final tweaks to it after the last fit model, so I'm confident to have copies made for use. Until then, I've remodeled it's mate and I'm working on a working sample:




I've only cut and assembled a single shoe, since I want to check for surprises. This orange leather is something I've been hoarding for a number of years - I think it will be difficult to get more of it (sorry for the tease). On the other hand, this shoe might be a good candidate for the crust leather I was experimenting with last spring. The temperament of the crust was too firm for what I originally wanted to do with it - but perfect for this, I think!

I am continuing the external stiffeners from the last mock-up - I should have this reasonably close to finished this weekend. One of the guys at my bike shop fits this last, but I'd love to try it on additional people - if you are interested and wear a size 10 medium width (11 1/2-ish womens'), please contact me.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

Last Progress

I talked to my last maker yesterday and he thinks he'll get my samples out today (fingers crossed!). According to his measurements the "Princess" measures quite a bit wider than I calculated - that's why I'm getting samples - at least it's some information I can compare with the process I use.

Also yesterday, I threw a heel stiffener onto the fitter model for the bike shoe last, so I can get a little bit better information off of it. A few of the guys at my bike shop tried it on. The results were interesting and also caused me to reexamine my assessment of the fit on myself.

Today, I experimented with some ideas I had for taking measurements from the foot and the last and apply better information. After fairly extensive reshaping of the last it measures true to a 10D:



This weekend I'll redraft the patterns and make a new fitter. If all goes well, I still need to reshape the mate to this one. Hopefully I'll have some WIP to show off on Monday or Tuesday.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued

Today I finished the preliminary patterns and cut this upper for testing. It still needs some tweaking, but it is unlined with an external counter and toe-box. The main body is a perforated cowhide I found at the discount fabric store and the vamp reinforcement is punched for decoration and to expose the perfs:



Experimenting with a decorative stitch for shaping the back curve:


For some really neat decorative stitching on footwear- check out the site of a former student of mine who is studying in London: Michelle Quick

WIP- Cycling Shoes

While I am waiting on the samples of the Gunton and "____" lasts, I've been working a little bit towards progress on an athletic style last. I have a stock last from my last maker that I've heavily modified that I hope is a good candidate for the cycling shoes I've been poking and prodding at on a very irregular basis. This quick fit model shows promise and I can start on a new working prototype:



This is just some of the first steps for fit which must be verified before investing in more expensive materials and techniques (composites and clipless pedal systems).

I am also experimenting with getting information from an existing pair of shoes that I felt fit me pretty good- this I can use as a base-line for original lasts, since fit can be an ephemeral goal sometimes.

WIP- last making, continued

On Friday I finished the new flat last model, as well as finally putting some work into correcting some issues with the Gunton last. They are both on their way to my last-maker to get sample pairs turned- once I figure out how many sizes I can actually afford to try out (I have one or two people interested in the Gunton, maybe?).






Once again, I'll be hoping for a couple of feet to test the fit of the flat last (size 8 and _?). Fitting is focusing on the flat last, as I hope to do some lightweight slipper/casual shoes that I can produce relatively inexpensively, even as one-offs. The shape of he Gunton really requires heavier leathers and robust constructions that I will have to limit to semi-custom.

I have yet to decide on a name for the flat last- in a rush to pack it up, I named it Princess, but I'm not remotely thrilled with that. I like the idea of using a family name, like with the Gunton - if any family type people actually read this blog, I'm taking suggestions - the more obscure the better?!

WIP- last making

Distracted from Etsy projects (boo, me!) - this is a new last that I've been poking and prodding at:




Perhaps not obvious from the pictures, I've also modified the woodworking bench so that the vise is mounted to a leg for better stability, my various rasps have useful homes, and there's space (currently occupied by random chunks of wood and lasts) for a special knife for shaping lasts.

Done!

These are going to Michigan with me tomorrow to meet their new home- Here's hoping I got the fit right!

Ties should go up on Etsy tonight (thank you hurricane force winds on Friday!)- other items will be finished and put up when I get back from MI next week.

Q C