WIP 8-24-10

I've formed the bike shoe test upper over the last - I need to make a few minor tweaks to the pattern, but I like the way it looks so far:



To provide additional stiffness and protection to the external stiffeners, I applied a few coats of shellac. This is a bit of an experiment - shellac is popular with some vintage bicycle enthusiasts for treating handlebar wrap, and I though it would be a nice addition on this shoe- as it is based on vintage styles. It gives it a nice shine and didn't darken the leather a much as I feared- just a nice warm tone that goes very nicely with the orange leather:


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This is one of the test shoes on the new flat last I'm testing - just a basic slip on with contrast topline binding:


I'm still working on getting the binding consistent, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going to tweak this pattern a bit, plus I have two styles lined up for patterning tomorrow.

Last update and progress on the cycling shoes

Last week I received the new last samples as expected and I've been working working steadily with those. I've also been making significant progress on the bike shoe last and sample shoes. So, kind of a long update!
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I am so far pleased with the pointed flat last (it really needs a new name!) - it seems to only need mild tweaking. I am working on some samples for fitting (more on that after the pictures).



I do need people to test this last on (three, preferably) - size 8. If you are in Chicago and you think you are a good candidate with healthy size 8 feet (6 1/2-ish in mens') please contact me at: erickw (at) riotgeer (dot) com to discuss the particulars. I'll make a dedicated post after I've made some samples up.
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The Guntons' (which I was very excited to work with again) are being vexing - and need some extra work. I like this toe so very much, so hopefully I'll be able to shake out the issues soon.



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The cycling shoe last has been going very well - I made some final tweaks to it after the last fit model, so I'm confident to have copies made for use. Until then, I've remodeled it's mate and I'm working on a working sample:




I've only cut and assembled a single shoe, since I want to check for surprises. This orange leather is something I've been hoarding for a number of years - I think it will be difficult to get more of it (sorry for the tease). On the other hand, this shoe might be a good candidate for the crust leather I was experimenting with last spring. The temperament of the crust was too firm for what I originally wanted to do with it - but perfect for this, I think!

I am continuing the external stiffeners from the last mock-up - I should have this reasonably close to finished this weekend. One of the guys at my bike shop fits this last, but I'd love to try it on additional people - if you are interested and wear a size 10 medium width (11 1/2-ish womens'), please contact me.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

Last Progress

I talked to my last maker yesterday and he thinks he'll get my samples out today (fingers crossed!). According to his measurements the "Princess" measures quite a bit wider than I calculated - that's why I'm getting samples - at least it's some information I can compare with the process I use.

Also yesterday, I threw a heel stiffener onto the fitter model for the bike shoe last, so I can get a little bit better information off of it. A few of the guys at my bike shop tried it on. The results were interesting and also caused me to reexamine my assessment of the fit on myself.

Today, I experimented with some ideas I had for taking measurements from the foot and the last and apply better information. After fairly extensive reshaping of the last it measures true to a 10D:



This weekend I'll redraft the patterns and make a new fitter. If all goes well, I still need to reshape the mate to this one. Hopefully I'll have some WIP to show off on Monday or Tuesday.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued

Today I finished the preliminary patterns and cut this upper for testing. It still needs some tweaking, but it is unlined with an external counter and toe-box. The main body is a perforated cowhide I found at the discount fabric store and the vamp reinforcement is punched for decoration and to expose the perfs:



Experimenting with a decorative stitch for shaping the back curve:


For some really neat decorative stitching on footwear- check out the site of a former student of mine who is studying in London: Michelle Quick

WIP- Cycling Shoes

While I am waiting on the samples of the Gunton and "____" lasts, I've been working a little bit towards progress on an athletic style last. I have a stock last from my last maker that I've heavily modified that I hope is a good candidate for the cycling shoes I've been poking and prodding at on a very irregular basis. This quick fit model shows promise and I can start on a new working prototype:



This is just some of the first steps for fit which must be verified before investing in more expensive materials and techniques (composites and clipless pedal systems).

I am also experimenting with getting information from an existing pair of shoes that I felt fit me pretty good- this I can use as a base-line for original lasts, since fit can be an ephemeral goal sometimes.