Riotgeer Design

First Update of 2012

2012-01-10T15:32:00.004-06:00

Updated - see below!

Oooh... momentous!

Not so exciting really, but I needed to put something up.

So far I've been unable to take the Velo Shoes in for the needed stitching so I can finish them up. I'm crossing my fingers that I'll be doing that this week. The boxes of shoes are making me anxious - they are so close!

In the meantime, I've been prepping some lasts and fitters for non-Velo customers - I have a couple of pretty cool pairs of boots in the pipeline.

I'm also working on some new wallets/card cases and some carry-alls. The carry-alls are still in the planning stage, but I've been using the working wallet prototype for several days - it's pretty nice:

I plan to have this and one or two other wallets available at my Etsy store before the month is over.

I said I didn't want to use my name for my Facebook artists page. I made a decision that sort of solidified that - Facebook doesn't allow renaming pages, so the only option is to scrap it and make it anew. The new page is active! there isn't much on it at the moment, but you should like it! The old one will remain until I catch up with myself - but I will not be posting anything new except reminders to switch over.

Well, anyway, Happy New Year! My 2011 was wonky - here's hoping 2012 is excellent!

Kirsten-Erick

Soled and Waiting!

2011-12-22T21:41:00.003-06:00

Well, the leather soles are on and the lasts are out!

The Velo shoes are in boxes and waiting to meet a special stitching machine before I can put the heels and rubber half-soles on. I'm looking into shoe repair shops to do the work and I'll be taking them in next week after I do a little extra research.

It's not quite the weekend, but have a good one! Please enjoy the slide show of the Velo shoes so far...

Cleaning House

2011-12-19T09:50:00.005-06:00

Totally not an update about the studio.

I desperately need to clean out some stuff from the apartment - and maybe you need a couple last minute gifts? I've posted several items to Craigslist:

Home Pilates Machine in good used condition - Sold!

Pedal exerciser never removed from its shipping box

Collectible Voldemort wand recreation

Dress watch with black croc-print band

Gothic coffin case/purse with metal hardware - Sold!

IKEA wall-mounted folding table never opened - Sold!

Hopefully soon, I'll have time to go through my excess bike accessories and parts as well. For those of you hoping for crafting and making items - once I'm done with the bike shoe trial - I'm planning on making a serious effort to clean out stuff from the studio.

Soling the Velos

2011-12-18T18:48:00.004-06:00

Quick update - I've attached the soles to the first ten pairs of the Velo shoes. I started with the duplicate sizes first, so I'm making speedy progress getting the duplicate sizes lasted and caught up with the rest.

Once all of the shoes have the leather soles attached, I'll take them to be sewn with a special stitching machine I do not have. Once that is done, they'll get their rubber half-soles and heels.

"Like" my page on Facebook to see more process WIP pictures!

Do you Facebook?

2011-12-08T09:03:00.007-06:00

I did it. I created a Facebook page for my work and there is now a "Like" button over there on the right hand side of the screen, above the blog description. Among other things, I'll be posting more WIP photos so people can see what I'm working on between blog posts. Go ahead - you know you want to!

In other news, the lasting of the Velo Shoes is going well. Currently, all of the lasts are occupied, so the remaining pairs must be patient.

The lasting that I've been showing off so far have not been cemented to the insole boards yet - if you were my students, I would have called it pre-lasting.

I have started cementing! These are the ones with more uppers waiting in the wings:

This is good!

Current Projects and Events!

2011-12-04T19:35:00.006-06:00

I've been pretty busy the last few days, so I thought I would post another update.

Lasting continues on the Velo shoes. Between pairs I've been working on some other components and progress is becoming steady.

Just as a point of curiosity, these uppers were designed to last easier/faster - and they are - sort of. Simply being unlined speeds up the process greatly by having less layers and steps, but physically they've been more demanding due to components and materials. The heat activated stiffener material requires additional dexterity between grabbing different tools while warming the material and pulling it into place. The spread of material characteristics adds some intrigue - all of them are suitable, but there is 'just' enough variety to make very distinct differences in the processes and how I compensate for more or less malleability.

I'm using a number of techniques that are either new to me, or I just don't use very often because there isn't any advantage when I'm making things one at a time. I am keeping a list of considerations for the next round - things involving patterns, techniques, and materials/component considerations. I'll definitely have a good idea of how things can be sped up to avoid many of the delays of this trial run.

My other projects are gaining momentum as well.

Currently, I'm in the process of adjusting two pairs of lasts for some boot projects. Soon I'll be fitting those, so pictures will follow once the designs get approved.

I'm working on a few new items for Etsy and Wolfbait and I hope to put a few out there in time for the current gift giving season. A note about the Strap-on Neckties: the current ones were a test batch I was selling at a reduced price. The next time I make a new batch, the price will be going up - so, get them cheap while you can.
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On Saturday evening, I made it out into the world and actually interacted with humans, hurrah!

I like talking to bike folks and meeting framebuilders, and Rob Vandermark of Seven Cycles was in town to speak at the Get A Grip bike fit studio.

It was very cool to hear about the methods Seven uses to build bikes out of titanium, steel, and carbon fiber. Virtually all of their production is custom, so they work with fit studios like Get A Grip who interface with the customers.

I got to chat about the company and a bit about the region. The Boston area has quite a framebuilding history and a special place in my heart , so I hope to get out there again soon. My schedule was very tight the last time I was out there, and I missed Seven when I was visiting framebuilders, but I'll correct that next time.

I was busy talking and listening, so I only took a few pictures of some stuff I've been geeking out over lately:

Until later!

At Lasting!

2011-11-29T16:31:00.005-06:00

Sorry, I couldn't resist - as it implies, I have officially begun lasting the Velo shoes!

At the moment, my studio feels like an icebox - I have a spare space heater to bring to the studio, but I am waiting on a Zipcar reservation to drop it off and run an errand. Since I find myself with a few minutes to burn, I can point out some new things on the blog.

I did update the News page, but it is old news if you've been following the blog posts.

In addition to the link to my Etsy store and Wolfbait & B-girls in the side bar, I have added an Etsy page up top. While I was updating the Etsy site, I ran across code that allows me to include a preview of my store or my favorites on the site. I'll be tweaking the dimensions and perhaps ultimately scrapping it, but now you can go to the Etsy page up top and see a selection of my available items, as well as a means to click directly to the actual listings.

For more networking and promotions, I am considering creating a Facebook page. I've almost decided what to call it. Someone has created a completely unrelated page using the same spelling of Riotgeer as me. It leaves me a bit grumpy since I have very specific reasons for spelling it as I do - but I don't think I can do anything about it. Most likely, I'll wind up just using my name (though a few people will understand why I'd rather not do that). As far as business purposes I'd like to not add paperwork to my pile, so I don't want to do an assumed name for my design studio right now.
That said, I would like to get some feedback on the idea of a FB page.

Updates on Velo shoes and the site

2011-11-24T17:00:00.001-06:00

Hello all! I am out of town for the holiday, but I have some updates to share with folks.

I think I mentioned this already, but when I was offered the opportunity to use my former employers machine to pick up where one of mine went down, I've also been picking up some shifts. At this shop we make mostly commercial costumes and props and it's all soft sculpture, working with foam and fake-fur and spandex and the like. It's a whole different world from making shoes and small leather goods - and it's been fun.

Between the costume shop and my studio, the Velo shoe uppers are now done - as soon as I get back to Chicago, I can start lasting. Eventually I'll make an album and include the close-ups, but here is a shot of the whole group of completed uppers:

Since I can't be at the studio working, I am taking the opportunity to make a few updates to the site/blog. I've added a new section to the sidebar for links to where you can find my stuff:

I am slowly working on updating my Etsy items (just in time for holiday shopping, right?) - don't forget that I am happy to hear inquiries into custom items through Etsy.

If you want to see some of my small items in person, I do have some items available at the Chicago store Wolfbait & B-girls - they are a great place to see various local and independently produced designs.

There are a few other changes afoot, but I'll save any announcements until they are more concrete.

Whether you celebrate the holiday or not, I hope you get to enjoy good drink, good food and good friends!

Sometimes it looks like a factory

2011-11-13T10:41:00.004-06:00

Progress progresses on the bike shoes - a person I worked for back in school is letting me use one of her machines to stand in for mine. I'm also doing a bit of work for her which I'm enjoying.

Because of the order of processes it's taking a bit longer moving between studios, but slow progress is better than no progress - yes?

And sometimes, yes, it does look like a factory - there's something satisfying about shots like this one:

I've finished the backs, so I'm ready to join the fronts with the borrowed machine and then I can finish the uppers on my own machines and start lasting:

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Since the holiday season is nigh - I'll be putting a few items back up in my Etsy store. Keep an eye out for the link to be resurrected. On a somewhat related note, I'm contemplating some additions/changes to the site... we'll see.

Expletives.

2011-11-03T11:29:00.003-05:00

After finally getting through a hump of delays, one of my sewing machines has died. It's one that I use for a critical part of sewing the bike shoe uppers, and it happened promptly after informing a customer that I would be very shortly moving from making the uppers to lasting.

The machine's an antique and made for a European market, so fixing it will be far more expensive that replacing it. I'm looking to either make use of a willing friends machine or find a way to acquire a replacement. Until that is solved, I'm working on other parts of the shoes.

Bike Shoes Update 10/15/11

2011-10-15T21:38:00.004-05:00

A very, very brief update on the bike shoes trial.

I am hard at work on the shoes - the earlier delays, as well as some others pushed the project into a period where there were some major things going on that couldn't be avoided or rescheduled.

Since the last post, I've finished making all of the sectionals on the computer, made numerous spreadsheets to keep everything organized and efficient, and begun cutting. Right now, I am maybe 85% done with cutting all of the uppers. It is going smoothly and I will finish tomorrow - assembly will commence Monday.

On Sunday (tomorrow), my studio building is continuing a weekend of open studios - while I haven't prepared anything for guests, I will be there working - come by and see the art - and see what 13 pairs of shoes look like before they start getting sewn together! The address is 3311 West Carroll Avenue, in the East Garfield park neighborhood.

Maybe I'll see some of you tomorrow.

Goodnight!

Delay, Work, Delay, Work - Yay!

2011-09-25T17:00:00.001-05:00

Sorry for the silence - I have been plugging away at the bike shoes, but as the title implies, I ran into a lot of delays which I'm finally recovering from.

Some of the delays were the result of some back and forth with suppliers. I'm still learning to navigate resourcing materials that are usually sourced for factories - most of these places aren't really set up for working on such a small scale. As of now, I have the materials I need, but I'll have to exercise extra amounts of caution with building all the pieces parts. The next go round, it will be smoother.

The grading process wasn't as straight-forward as I hoped, due to some inconsistencies in the lasts. So I did a lot of hand-wringing before deciding on a method to proceed with.

I've been using a combination of traditional pen on paper drafting, along with experimenting with using a vector drawing program to clean and scale them to different sizes and still maintain proportions. It's been an up and down process - especially since I'm not using a program with built-in footwear/pattern engineering parameters... someday... a person can dream, right?

Patterning can be time-consuming, but the nice thing about this design is that once I'm satisfied that the patterns are good, everything can move forward very quickly. Below are two sample uppers I'm testing to see how the patterns fit on the last. These give me enough info to tweak the patterns and begin cutting the finals towards the end of the week (btw, that's the "yay!" part).

If it continues as expected, the next update will show off some of the final uppers before they go on the last.

Until next time!

Lasts!

2011-09-02T17:23:00.008-05:00

Haha, the lasts have finally arrived!

I was able to start the patterning process Thursday night, and I'll get into it in earnest on Saturday, when it will (hopefully) be less hot. I'll be taking the opportunity of working with multiple sizes of a single last style to try my hand at grading the patterns (generating different sizes) - due to mostly making one-offs, it's a skill that I've never had need to learn. This should also make it go faster (as I cross my fingers against jinxing things).

Also... A customer has just ordered a pair of the "Elf" last for future footwear.

Since it usually takes around a month to get lasts back from copying, they should arrive when I'm finishing up the bike shoes. If you like this style last and are interested in having a custom pair of lasts done up for you, this is the ideal time to do it so it won't take super long to start. The site is peppered with images of shoes and boots made on the Elf - look at the about page, and the portfolio page - they are the ones with the distinctive upturned toe.

~~FYI, I'll try to throw together a bit of a process explanation on the lasts page as a way of explaining the time lapse.~~ Done! Let me know if it seems clear and straightforward.

Have a good weekend!

Bike Shoes Update 8/18/11

2011-08-18T07:08:00.006-05:00

It's been a while since the last update, but things are picking up speed after some delays.

The person copying my lasts for me had to delay the production, but they are back on the job now! I need to visit family next week, but the lasts should be waiting for me when I get back. Once the lasts are in hand, I'll check them over and the patterning process starts.

I've been keeping busy while waiting on the lasts. I'm still in the process of replenishing my materials and supplies, but that is very nearly completed. I've been working on sample shoes to tweak the patterns and try out a couple of additional material varieties:

Above is an upper using my Horween "rust" leather with the trim worked from one of the scrap bin leathers - it's a pretty neat combination.

The second upper is from a waxier Horween latigo with a softer hand than the original red - I bought this option for customers that need more flexibility. The black trim is the same material from the tongue and top binding.

Both of these tests use a slightly different pattern layout on the toe and backstrap reinforcing:

I welcome comments on the pattern arrangement - sometimes subtle changes bring about dramatic reactions - what do you think?

With things being delivered next week, I will become crazed with shoemaking and I'll be hitting the ground running.

For a slight distraction from the bike shoes theme, next week I'll post pictures of pair of shoes that are moments away from being finished.

Now - I have work to do!

P.S.: I still have a sewing machine for sale!

Leather, Updates and Ideas!

2011-07-21T18:05:00.008-05:00

I got to swing by the tannery yesterday to see what leather I could pick up to round out the choices for the bike shoes trial - always fun, and sometimes frustrating, it is the nature of how I procure hides. More on that later....

So now that I have all the colors I'll be able to offer, I'll go through my stock to see how much I have of what so don't promise six pairs of something I only have enough for three - or some similarly horrifying result.

There will be black - which is surprising since it's been years since I actually bought any (other than for trims and linings), plus there was one piece of red hide that should work as a softer alternative to the red latigo (see preceding posts for pictures of "those red shoes"). Unfortunately, there was no longer any more of the actual red latigo, so what I have in stock is it for the foreseeable future unless some company decides to order a several hundred feet.

Something I don't usually do, is go through the scraps bin. It's usually depressing to find a minuscule scrap of something gorgeous that I can't get restocked without thousands of dollars investment. This time I did, so there are some fun options for trims and possibly one unique shoe in one variety (it's a bit oily though):

Variety of leather is one of the benefits, as well as the downsides to being an individual artist/craftsperson/designer (whatever). I can usually come up with some pretty unique solutions to the needs of a customer by dropping by the tannery - even though sometimes it will come with a very hefty price-tag depending on what type of leather it is, as well as what grading it has. Horween specializes in very good quality leathers. I get to see a lot of samples that were made for specialty markets, and I have a huge library of swatches of ridiculously cool leathers going back to my student years. Unfortunately most of them will probably never be available to me, so I keep them for color and tannage reference and daydreaming.

The leather choice issue is also why finding a variety of crust leather that I can custom dye is so very appealing. If I could get a somewhat large quantity manufactured without committing to making hundreds of shoes all the same color, the volume pricing could potentially offset some of the cost of providing custom and semi-custom color options.

I do buy some upper leather from other suppliers - except for some premium Italian stuff, I keep having more bad experiences than good (mostly inconsistent quality). I don't feel bad about making those my last resort these days.
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I need to update my materials and make new cards and a new brochure type thing. I would really like to do some promotional items to sell, such as T-shirts and cycling caps. They would be printed with a variation of my header logo, so I've been shopping around screen printing shops and researching a particular cycling cap I like. I don't know if I'd be pursuing this while I'm working on the trial run, or afterward when I'm reviewing the trial and working out the logistics of a larger run.

I would love to hear from people any ideas on taking pre-orders or something similar. I'm wondering if using something like Kickstarter to graduate to the next stage might be something to consider.
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Some of you may have noticed that I took down my link to Etsy (as well as the pieces on it). I decided to try them out at a local boutique - Wolfbate & B-girls in Chicago's Logan Square. It's a pretty nifty shop, and people can see my stuff in person. I will probably gradually restock some items on Etsy, but I want to see how things go at the shop first.
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In an effort to make space (and a few dollars), I have one of my sewing machines up for sale on Craigslist here.

I'm thinking of holding a studio sale to make some space, and get rid of materials I probably won't ever get around to using - I keep buying fabric for projects that I don't have time to make. I'm going to be pretty hectic once the bike shoe lasts get here, so it needs to happen pretty soon - if at all.

Until next time,

Cheers!

Bike Shoes Update 7/12/11

2011-07-12T09:18:00.003-05:00

This is just a really quick post to say that I've closed the pre-orders for my bike shoes trial run. The last model is on it's way to my last-maker. On order are twelve pairs of shoes to be made once the lasts come back.

While I'm waiting for the lasts, I'll be collecting supplies that need to be restocked and start discussing color and detail options available to the customers.

Then I get to be the crazed shoemaker!

In case you're bored with the same picture over and over again, I'll give you something new to look at next time!

There are a few details to work out, but there will be some more announcements to be made in the near future. I'm applying to participate in an event coming up that I'll post once I've heard back.

Cheers!

Bike Shoes Are Go! Plus a Boston Trip Recap

2011-07-05T11:00:00.000-05:00

Fantastic news!

I seem to have met my minimum to start on the trial run of the bike shoes!

It would be great to get a few more people in on this, so give me a ring or send a message if you are interested. I plan on sending my bike last to be copied by the end of the week, so I need a final list of sizes by Monday, July 11th.

If you are local, it's possible that I can measure you myself (depending on time and your distance from me or proximity to CTA trains) - It's nice to talk to people in person - so it's preferable if it's possible.

Oh, and FYI: Because this isn't meant to be custom, you don't need to be local or follow a rigorous measuring protocol to take part in this.

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Boston was blast!

I was able to make the trip because there were a number of things going on - a high school reunion, networking with bike folks, pedorthics research and then on to a family reunion in Rhode Island to celebrate my parents birthdays. This trip was packed, and long and cool.

Did I mention long? It's been ages since I've left town for more than a few days - here I've been back a week and I'm still getting back into a groove, if you've made it this far into the post, you already know why I'm especially excited right now!

Out of shear luck, the tenants where I crashed in Boston were mostly involved with bikes somehow, so I got off to a great start meeting people just by staying put and hanging out (thanks Laurel!). Besides the where I stayed (and the reunion), I also got to to have a great time hanging out and catching up with some old friends!

I have rediscovered how bad my sense of direction can sometimes be by wandering around Boston. I probably would have been better off without trying to geek-out with the map program on my phone and just submitted to looking like a tourist - I can actually read a map, though you wouldn't know it if you'd seen me. Ha!

I still managed to stop by Geekhouse Bikes in Boston and Royal H Cycles in Somerville (as well as an unplanned visit to Independent Fabrications!). Thanks everyone for taking time out to talk, show me cool stuff and chat about how and why we make things.

I made it in to a few bike shops - both for eye-candy and to see what is what. Fitters at two locations of Wheelworks indulged me in conversation about how various fitting systems incorporate footwear issues (and vice-versa). Superb Bicycles in Boston was a pretty cool shop to visit - cool bikes and a cool selection of bike-centric clothing.

From Boston, I bussed it to Rhode Island to hang out with extended family (that I don't see often), immediate family (that I should see more often) and wish my parents a happy birthday!

My flights were mostly uneventful and now I'm back in Chicago!

Now, I have a bunch of stuff to make happen, so I'm signing off. I hope you've had a lovely Fourth of July weekend and you're looking forward to a great week ahead.

Cheers!

Updates Before I'm Boston Bound!

2011-06-16T12:44:00.002-05:00

I am leaving for Boston tomorrow morning! While I'm away, I'll be checking my e-mail to discuss the bike shoe project, etc...

The Bike Shoe trial is listed at the top of my News Page

I'm just starting to add descriptions to the work on the footwear portfolio page - just a bit at a time.

Cheers!

Bike Shoes Trial Run!

2011-06-13T15:19:00.007-05:00

So, yesterday I mentioned I want to do a trial run on the bike shoes - here is an updated version of the proposal:

The basic design is engineered to be pretty quick builds, so I can make them relatively inexpensively. Since the big hurdle is the cost of getting the lasts copied, I need a small group of interested people to put down deposits. While, I'm not comfortable stating it here, I have a trial price in mind that should at least cover a small range of lasts, the materials, plus help me keep the lights on. This is for handmade - not made to measure - bike shoes for use with clips and straps (heck, there's nothing that says you need to use these on a bike!). If you are interested, contact me and we'll discuss what options* there are and how to proceed. I'm not asking for specific sizes - give me a shout and we'll see if a natural range results. I am thinking at least six people will make it a go, and I need to know soon, as it takes some time to get the lasts copied.

It will help speed things up greatly if - before you contact me - you get your feet measured using a Brannock device at your local shoe store. Whether you identify M/F or other, please have them use the mens' device. Make sure you are standing up for the measuring of both feet. The instructions for the use of these devices have changed over the years - your particular store might not follow this set.

I have to get back to the studio, now, but please get in touch if you are interested or you have questions.

Cheers!

* I know not everyone wants bright red shoes - color is one of the points to discuss with me!

There Will Be More Bike Shoes!

2011-06-12T11:02:00.006-05:00

Now that the Bike Chic fashion show is over, it's time to keep going!

I'm really liking the bike shoes so far, but I'm hoping to get a few people into other sizes this summer. The basic design (the red ones) are designed to be pretty quick builds, so I can make them relatively inexpensively. I still haven't costed them out, but I'd love to chat about it if you are interested. The big hurdle is the cost of getting the lasts copied. If I can get a few people in different sizes interested in putting down deposits on handmade - not made to measure - bike shoes for use with clips and straps - we can discuss a reasonable price. I don't have specific sizes in mind yet, so give me a shout and we'll see if a natural range results. I need to know soon, as it takes some time to get the lasts copied.

I'd like to play with composite lay-up, but that may dramatically increase the price - I will discuss it if there is interest.

On a related note (to handmade bike stuff anyway), I'll be visiting the Boston area very soon. I'm hoping to get an opportunity to meet some bike framebuilders while I am there - give me a shout if you are one and you have time for a chat, or maybe you know someone and can get me in touch.

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I need to make space both at home and at the studio, so....

I'm selling one of my bikes - here's the craigslist ad.

I am selling one of my industrial sewing machines. This is the Consew flatbed straightstitch machine with reverse. It has a nearly new clutch motor and K-legs with a heavy wood top - I'll be asking $200 as is (which is a good deal for those parts alone) - I'll up the price if I decide to lug the head to the machine shop to have it checked out. Contact me ASAP if you want it as is- there is no listing for it yet.

Bike Chic, Bike Shoes And A Plan

2011-06-09T14:00:00.001-05:00

For those of you who couldn't make it to the Bike Chic fashion show today, here are some photos of the finished shoes - later, I'll post some shots from the show itself!

Something that resembles a plan:

Over the last year in the studio I’ve been trying some new things and continuing explorations already in progress – in a roundabout way, it’s been about feeling out a direction to take my work. I’ve decided to focus most of my studio efforts into developing and making cycling footwear and accessories. This is a subject that will allow me to continue to explore many of the things that I enjoy – such as materials research, last design and shoe/object making. Refocusing my studio work will require some changes both directly and indirectly related to my practice.

To focus on cycling stuff, I need to commit to some research and development, as well as some further professional development. I’ve decided to finish my prerequisites to sit for the Certified Pedorthist exam. Getting certified is partly for research, and partly for credentials to help me get a job. I think having my C.Ped will be useful if I’m making shoes that need to be particularly bio-mechanically sound, plus while I was taking the pedorthics course two years ago, I learned some techniques I can apply to engineering footwear. This should be a win-win situation – I’m expecting it to take a while to see the cycling shoes project bare fruit -- and having my C.Ped will keep me employed until then.

I'm still taking commissions - not only bike shoes, though that's going to be my main focus moving forward - plus right now, I am seeking something to help pay bills and opportunities to fulfill the intern hours required for pedorthics certification.

Finally, I still have my small leather goods for sale on Etsy - they want to make you look sharp and hold your keys, cards and cash for you!

Bike Chic Thursday!

2011-06-08T08:33:00.004-05:00

Thursday at noon at Daley Plaza downtown Chicago is the Bike Chic fashion show!

Probably without the killer heat - bonus!

Hope to see you there.

Bike Chic Fashion Show Is Next Week!

2011-06-03T12:00:00.001-05:00

Hey everybody! Just a friendly reminder that Chicago is presenting the Bike Chic fashion show on Thursday June 9th at noon in Daley Plaza!

I'll be providing the shoes to designer Seth Meyerink-Griffin's two looks on the runway. We should be doing the fittings on Saturday and I'm waiting until the show to post the final pics of the shoes.

On a related note, I've updated my About page a little bit, and I'll probably be making a significant post after the show next week.

Have a good weekend, and I hope to see people at the show if you're local!

Bike Shoes Progress

2011-05-31T19:28:00.005-05:00

Things are certainly coming along with the shoes I'm making for the Bike Chic fashion show - here's a look at them so far:

The shellac isn't as nice as the trial I did last year, but I think for now it turns out how it turns out, so they are ready for soling, which starts tomorrow.

The fittings are this weekend, so that is my deadline - maybe I'll have a chance to make up the red ones before the show?

Oh, and visit my Etsy Store and buy things!

These Could Be Yours Now...

2011-05-19T19:35:00.003-05:00

They're made of leather and they're for sale!

Small Things!

2011-05-17T23:56:00.008-05:00

My headache finally went away late this morning - it's been one of those ones that's not excruciating in the way I imagine a migraine would be, but it sort of clouded everything and made me swear alot. I blame the wacky weather we've been having this Spring. But the good news is I've finished with the fun stuff! I have a pile of small leather items to put up on Etsy:

There really was a pile and there is even photographic evidence because sometimes I'm easily amused... but I can't show it to you now because that camera isn't at home. It also has all the nice pictures of what's about to be up for sale. So tonight and tomorrow morning I'm working on a spreadsheet for costing the items - I'll edit the pictures tomorrow sometime and get the listings up.

I'll be introducing two styles of wallets and two types of single loop key fobs.
The first is the same as ones I did last year, but using Horween leather:

And the second one is the Bondage fob:

Instead of the "D" ring I usually use for the snap to attach, I used a steel "O" ring - not the most original name, but it'll work.

So, I'll leave you with the prototype wallet and say goodnight:

Appearing Soon!

2011-05-13T11:49:00.009-05:00

I wanted to let people know what stuff to be on the look out for coming up really soon.

On June 9th, Chicago is presenting the Bike Chic: Commuter Fashion show as part of it's Bike to Work Week, being put on by Bike Chicago.

A while back when I found that a friend, Seth Meyerink-Griffin, was possibly taking part in a bike fashion show, it seemed like an ideal time to take my bike shoe explorations off of hiatus.

Well, Seth is doing the show! As of now, my participation is kind of unofficial, but I will be providing the shoes worn by his models for the Bike Chic show. The shoe lasts I was modifying recently are for one of the pairs of shoes being modeled.

Here are a couple images I'm basing my designs off of - just a couple quick sketches from my sketchbook. These aren't the final designs and I'm working with Seth to keep the color story coherent, so this is just a little something:

Bike related things have been at the forefront of my brain for a while now, and I'm happy to have found something to spur new activity on the bike shoes.
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In other news, I've had a delay with the hardware for the small leather goods, so I can't finish them up before I go out of town for family stuff. Final assembly will happen Monday and Tuesday, and I'll be listing things on my Etsy site in the evenings as they are finished.

I will be doing a new style of single key fob, as well as the old ones, but in new leathers. I am introducing two wallet styles - one is a chain style with the double looped fob, and the other is something to put in your pocket or bag and can be outfitted with a grommet for a chain if desired. Here is a shot of the prototype chain wallet with fob:

... and here's my little assembly line:

So that is all for now. I'll definitely put up a post when I get the Etsy listings up and running, but I also have had some things on my mind that I'm pulling together. They're related to current projects and I'd like to get some feedback on them, so I'm going to put some of them to text while I'm on the train.

They Will Be Shoes!

2011-05-02T12:00:00.000-05:00

I am working on some shoes for something upcoming (tease!) and I'm working on modding a pair of athletic lasts I've had floating around for a bit. The project is coming up soon enough that the lasts and shoes need to be good first time out, so I'm taking it slow and steady.

The technique for reducing the vertical height of the last uniformly from the bottom of the last uses a flex-shaft, drill bit and a stop-collar:

I've drilled two different depths, so when I rasp down the remaining material, I will have to blend the curves:

A little tool I've had for many years, that has proven to be invaluable to me, is this little miniature spoke shave. I use it to make fine adjustment and smooth out the bottoms of lasts:

I have a great deal of shaping left to do, so I'm expecting to be working on it most of the week between other projects and studying/research:

Dye!

2011-05-01T12:00:00.002-05:00

I had one of those happy accidents that can yield some really neat results. When mixing dye for a project, I got this sweet acid green that contrasts really neatly with a tipping of orange when it's applied to a textured leather:

I'm experimenting with finishing techniques to keep the brightness and high contrast - otherwise, it results with the color close to what I was actually shooting for (but am less excited about):

Bikes have been on my mind a lot lately, so here is my photo album from the 2009 NAHBS... just because everything is so very, very pretty:

Organizing the Studio, Organizing the Blog!

2011-04-24T13:00:00.005-05:00

I am still tweaking it and deciding what is going to stay on the about me page, but check it out. I've made an entry that talks about the kind of projects I am particularly keen to work on.

I've created a new page describing my three primary last styles. All of my lasts are available for doing custom work, including ones not showcased on my lasts page.

I may have mentioned that I wanted to build a new cutting table and possibly a divider wall? Well, as a birthday present, I was able to purchase the materials - yes! Consequently, the studio was shut down for a couple weeks(!) while I was building. I'm still cleaning (oh, the dust!) and organizing, but it is really very cool that I'm finally able to give things a proper home.

This is the new cutting table - it is very much overbuilt, but I can really heap abuse on my studio furnishings, so this is a good thing. It has a very large shelf underneath that will someday have drawers to protect rolled up leather:

Two of the legs have heavy duty casters so I can move it wheelbarrow style:

These are not the most brilliant of pictures, since the quarters are close, but I built a dividing wall to separate the "clean" from "messy" areas of the studio. One side is paneled with smooth white paneling that works as a white board to take notes on:

And on the back side, it is paneled with peg board to hang my tools over my shoemaking bench:

While the inevitable scrapes and bruises are healing, I'm putting everything away and creating task areas, such as a dedicated dye/airbrush station for working on my custom dyed pieces.

Along with everything else, the small leather goods were put on hold during the building, but I did pick up a fantastic piece of leather from Horween - it was a splurge, but it will make some really nice pieces.

This coming month is turning into a really busy time! There's some really exciting stuff I should be able to announce soon, plus I should have a few more items on Etsy soon, so keep an eye out.

State Two

2011-03-25T16:36:00.004-05:00

The elaborate new text stuff is delayed - boo! Though I have made some good progress on it.

This is a picture of some wallet prototypes I'm working on:

They look pretty good in the picture, but I need to troubleshoot some more. I'm happy with the patterns, but I need to either 1: change the leather, 2: use a different machine than my collection, or 3: both. These are some of the items that I'll have up on Etsy soon-ish.

On a related note, I'm going to visit the tannery when I get back from a trip to Michigan - I'll be looking at new leathers for the small goods projects and shoes. I'm also looking for leather for the bike shoes and the studio dyed/colored leather investigation since one or both projects will be coming off of hiatus.

So, I'm getting back up to speed, and the studio- while still a work in progress- is becoming functional.

State of My State

2011-03-22T08:43:00.005-05:00

Just a quick post!

I am working on some new small items for sale, so keep an eye out for new stuff in my Etsy shop soon - some will be companion pieces for some existing designs, and some will be stand-alone items.

I have edited the text at my Etsy shop to clarify that I am happy to discuss custom items, and also renewed the expired listings.

Upcoming! I've started working on some new descriptions of what I'm working on, as well as the kind of work I am particularly happy to be approached about. I'm looking at the end of the week to have the updates up.

I am excited to be discussing collaborations with a couple of Chicago designers, and I hope to share some of that in the future!

Til later,

Cheers

A Coat

2011-03-10T12:00:00.001-06:00

Before moving into the new studio, I made a few pieces - some personal projects and gifts/prototypes (see previous post).

I've been desperately in need of a new coat, but I wasn't in a position to go out an get something, and I didn't have time to start drafting something from scratch. I've been checking out the Burdastyle website for a while now, and I found a coat pattern that had some elements I liked. It was originally meant to be a spring-weight piece, so I needed to alter the pattern to allow for a lining, heavier fabric, and room enough for layering sweaters and such. I had some denim fabric I'd been saving for some pants that I decided would be put to good use for the coat. For warmth, I used a cotton flannel you might recognize from the original folding boot prototype:

When I was working at the cafe, my hands were really taking a beating, so the processes that are crucial to shoemaking were not pleasant, to say the least. I have been wanting to get back into some cut and sew stuff for a while, so it was a good alternative for the state of my hands. A lot of the knitwear pieces I've put together recently had, um, issues... I don't know how much was machine error, improper machine, or just me being out of practice. The coat was a good project for me, since I was able to remind myself of some of the particulars of using woven materials vs. leather. It certainly has some issues - awkwardly executed intersections in particular, but overall I'm pleased - and I have a new coat!

Prototype Bags and Gifts

2011-03-09T12:00:00.001-06:00

For the holidays, I made gifts for my family.

For my Dad, Sister and Brother-in-law, I made bags. The original pattern was one I found on Burdastyle, but I made significant changes to it, adding in elements and finishing techniques I like to use. I was using these pieces for prototyping - I'd like to be able to make these for sale now that I've gotten a sense of what worked and what needs to be changed. I had to use a machine at the school to do the finishing, so if I want to continue to develop this bag, I'd like to invest in a new sewing machine, so it will probably be a while.

All of the materials were things I had on hand, except for some strapping (that I kept running out of) and some interfacing. I made one for myself, so I could get first-hand sense of how well they work. All leather with a fabric lining:

For my Dad, I used leather for the back and flap (in one piece) and a fabric with a similar feel to waxed cotton for the front body and lining:

For my sister, I used leather for the front flap, and felt for the body. It is lined in a purple cotton twill:

For my Brother-in-law, I used a navy blue garment leather I'd been hoarding for years and black trim. Since they were the colors of Cobra from the G.I.Joe comic, I decided it was time to use a patch I picked up from a comic shop many years ago:

All of them have a drawstring to prevent water from getting into the body when the flap is down, but they can open up wider for ease of access.

As they are now, the bags are one big compartment - I installed snaps for combining accessories like pockets (to be designed later).

For my Mom, I knitted this hat - it's another of the first hat I knitted for myself. I'm kind of obsessed with some of the elements in the design:

I've been continuing to knit. With my energy level low for a while, I spent a lot of time knitting various personal projects. I've really become addicted to it - I haven't started designing original pieces yet, but I'm getting confident that I can start putting to paper some ideas I've had floating around in my head.

New Year and New Stuff

2011-03-08T12:00:00.002-06:00

It's been ever so long since I last updated here. I've had a lot going on- right now I'm home with an ick that's going around which may or may not be the flu. With three months of updates, I've broken this down into three separate posts that I will publish over the next couple of days.

I may have mentioned that I was looking for a job a while back, just something to pay the bills, since I haven't been aggressive trying to make money through the studio. Well, I did get a part time job at a cafe. It drained me pretty well, so I wasn't being too active at the studio. I've never really settled into the space with the pretty massive amount of stuff I crammed into it, so it felt like it took a lot of energy just being there.

At the beginning of February, my landlords asked me if I wanted to move into a different space - it suited me much better as far as space, layout and lighting. I jumped on it pretty quickly and made an agreement to move in by the February fifteenth. With the help of a couple of friends, I got everything shifted to the new space in record time.

I agreed with such short notice, that I didn't have time to consider placement, so it turned into a major project to move things into their proper positions. I finally have everything placed pretty well.

I'd like to build some shelves and dividers, but for now I'm trying to focus on making the space usable, so I can get back to work. I really, really need to get back to work. Just a few days after I officially came into possession of the new space, I found out that the cafe I'd been working at was closing down - just terrible, terrible timing for me. I'm looking for a job again, and trying to focus on a couple of paying jobs I have that got back-burnered. I have a few pieces I'd like to develop - non-shoe stuff that can be accessible and comparatively easier to produce.

Gunton Lasts, Items For sale and others

2010-11-17T07:12:00.014-06:00

I have a few pairs of shoes in progress on my Gunton last, which has given me an opportunity to analyze them in relation to multiple feet - all different sizes, but still useful information. Through this, I think I'm well on my way to resolving it's issues. This picture shows the dismantled lasts with early stages of modification:

These are pretty massive changes, made more complicated by the V-cut hinges. If budget wasn't a concern, I would have liked the opportunity to remake the model from scratch, as every last I make is an improvement on my knowledge and execution of last design.
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At the 3311 Carroll Open Studio Day, I talked to a lot of people about what I'm working on. I think I've finally found one fit model for the new last I've been developing - I still need one or two more!
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Visitors to the studios got to see the leather neckties I make, as well as some necklaces. The listings for them on Etsy expired prior to the the open studios - these are back up and running. These are first run of samples on the new materials, so they are being sold at a lower price of $35 - the next ones will be in the $50-$60 range.

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When I come across interesting shapes and patterns, I like to take pictures for reference and inspiration. Walking around recently, I came across this utility pole - I don't know what I'll do with it yet, but it's neat:

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Since I mentioned it in the last post, I thought I'd share a couple of picture. of the hat I knitted - I'm working on a new one with variations and a different yarn:

I found the pattern on Ravelry - it is designed by these folks.
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Well, I have to go do some work - have a good week!

Happy Halloween!

2010-10-31T11:11:00.001-05:00

I have been pretty busy the last couple of weeks, and it isn't stopping. The highlight has been a trip up to Wisconsin for the annual meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers Company, where once a year, shoemakers, shoe historians and enthusiasts meet up to talk, share information and hang out.

The meetings are always fantastic, as it is the one place I get to be surrounded by others engaged in the trade or practicing the craft - which is truly inspiring. Unfortunately I've only been able to make it to the gatherings that are hosted by a friend just over the border to the north - the last two were in entirely different parts of the country, so I really, really needed to make the connection this year.

I am very happy that I was able to attend this year, plus I was pleasantly surprised when I found that three of my former students were in attendance!

In the studio, I've let a lot of non-shoe and leather projects invade, so I've been doing some organizing and paring down to regain my focus- the Cordwainers meeting has me pumped to work!

What else have I been working on? Well, my major projects are still in development, so they aren't making any money yet- and won't for quite a while. I am working on a few commissions, but they aren't enough to pay the bills I've been accumulating, so I'm out there looking for a job- hopefully there's at least some seasonal work for me.

In my off-time, I've been learning to knit! I've always liked knits and fibers, and a number of my students have incorporated knitting, crochet and weaving into their footwear projects, plus my sister's been knitting for a while. It was only a matter of time before I gave it a try.... Over the summer (or was it late spring?) I took a class, but I put it aside until I got interested in a project. When I was helping my sister find some yarn, I found a hat pattern I thought was pretty cool. The hat is just about done and my hands are sore... I'm actually looking forward to the next project!

I'm thinking of writing up a blurb describing my aesthetic influences and interests to incorporate into my about page and I'm digging out some more old work that might make appearances in the portfolio pages. Don't forget to check out some of the blogs of interest in the sidebar- there's some pretty cool stuff! New to the list is the Blog from shoemakers CarreDucker- they describe a lot of traditional shoemaking techniques, and have mentioned a former student who is doing some amazing stuff in grad school.

I have to get to the studio now - I hope to see some of you next week. Here's a picture of a shoe I made several years ago when I was playing around with variations on "monkey boots":

Site Design - done for now

2010-10-14T21:03:00.005-05:00

I continued to tweak the site into Monday, and got some kind of satisfaction on the title and background image combination. This is a happy medium - because the background is fixed and the blog content adjusts to browser window size - it will change from user to user.

This setup will stay for a while (not including planned additions to the pages tab). The next couple of weeks are going to be busy, but hopefully I'll be able post some new (or new old) stuff.

P.S.: I still need fit models! Please check out this post from September 15th.

New Stuff and Testing Blog Changes

2010-10-08T17:50:00.006-05:00

Updated - if you type in www.riotgeer.com - you will now be redirected to the www.riotgeer.blogspot.com !

I'm trying out new looks and layouts, so the blog will change periodically over the weekend.

In new features, I've added a news page below the header - check it out for the latest activities - currently the top item is the 3311 Carroll Open Studios coming up November 7th.

Finally, I've added a few more pieces to the footwear portfolio page. Here's a one of my favorites from Riotgeer Design Co. - the Football Shoe on the Gunton Last:

Open Studio Day, November 7th, 2010

2010-10-06T08:29:00.003-05:00

Save the date to visit the artists at 3311 West Carroll:

Pictures From A Train...

2010-09-30T14:27:00.005-05:00

I've been out out of town since last week. Here are some pictures I shot with my cell phone on the train from Michigan yesterday morning - the fog made everything eerie and beautiful...

Update September 25, 2010

2010-09-25T10:35:00.003-05:00

I've activated some changes that I started working on at the last update, namely the pages feature.

Below the title banner, you will now find links for three pages (more to come!):

Home is the main blog page for navigating form the other pages.

There is now an about me page - I do take on commissions, so feel free to contact me about potential projects!

The final page is the first of some portfolio pages - this one is specifically a footwear portfolio. I will be adding to this with new work, as well as older- as I dig through my archives. The current images are sample sheets showing a variety of works in progress, which I hope you will enjoy. More pages to come will include fashion design, and miscellaneous including ancient history from college.

My search for fit models continues - if you think you are a candidate for being a fit model, please send me an e-mail with "fit model" in the subject.

Fit Models Needed, Happy Accidents and Other Projects

2010-09-13T10:52:00.014-05:00

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail attached to this post and site!)

Over the weekend I finished putting together two styles of fitter shoes on the flat last. They were delayed because I need to make some last minute changes to the last after pulling over what was supposed to be the first fitter.

So, I need two to three people to be fit models - from last weeks post:

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width (edit: if you happen to be at a shoe store that uses one- get yourself measured on a ladies Brannock Device). I get about by bicycle and If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address with "fit model" in the topic:

curious@riotgeer.com

I'll continue developing designs for the "collection", but until I can do fit evaluations, the flat last will be put on the backburner. I'm pretty excited about this last, so I'm hoping to get some responses for potential fit models soon.
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I thought I'd share some details on the fitter. I designed the lacing placket on the tied shoe on a whim, and I really like it. I think I can incorporate it into a collection of styles I'm developing for this last:

I like happy accidents that can inspire details in a project. While lacing up the fitter, the lace got twisted and caught on the toe- this could be a neat detail if I can work it into a toe cap or some-such so it is functional:

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Other items:

While I'm setting aside the flat last development until fitting, I'm going to try to make progress on the bike shoe.

I'm also working on some small cut and sew items that I can make up for sale. The small bags got stalled in a big way (ridiculous technical details - blah), but I'm hoping to make some progress while working on other new items.

The leather ties have been languishing in Etsy oblivion - I haven't gotten any feedback on them and it's frustrating. They are kind of stand-alone items right now - they need other similarly styled offerings nearby to grab attention. Something else to figure out - input on how to market them or even other items (related or not) you'd like to see would be greatly appreciated.

That's all for now - time to get to the studio!

Changes to the blog 9-13-10

2010-09-13T10:45:00.001-05:00

I've just made some substantial changes to the blog - It's getting pretty crowded in the sidebar, but I think the added stuff might make it interesting/useful.

There is now an e-mail link in the sidebar, to contact me at: curious@riotgeer.com

There is now a sharing link below the posts - Just click on the social media icon of your choice to share it with your friends!

I've made a "pages" link - this is intended more for the future (hopefully soon?) when I want to place information that will be pertinent for longer than the attention span of a blog post.

Deadlines, Samples and Updates

2010-09-07T08:46:00.008-05:00

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail associated with this post and site!)

No pretty pictures this post - I've had to put priority on some computer work for the last couple of weeks, so not much time in the studio- I'll be sure to post some of the results.
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The new last and fit models

This week I'll finish the samples on the flat last, so starting this weekend I'll be needing two to three volunteers to try out the new last:

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width. I get about by bicycle - If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address:

curious@riotgeer.com
____________________

Update on the bike shoes

After the previous post I mocked up an insole with fiberglass and epoxy reinforcement. It's been many years since I've experimented with composites, so I was expecting some learning curve.

I need to consult with someone knowledgeable in composites to help nail down the process. In the picture there are significant voids in the laminates and I'm not sure where the problems were introduced. Yes, that is a popsicle stick embedded in the fiberglass:

I'm not at all comfortable with my dust collection system in regards to grinding fiberglass - I'm going to have to put this element on hold until I can solve it.

WIP 8-24-10

2010-08-24T18:58:00.006-05:00

I've formed the bike shoe test upper over the last - I need to make a few minor tweaks to the pattern, but I like the way it looks so far:

To provide additional stiffness and protection to the external stiffeners, I applied a few coats of shellac. This is a bit of an experiment - shellac is popular with some vintage bicycle enthusiasts for treating handlebar wrap, and I though it would be a nice addition on this shoe- as it is based on vintage styles. It gives it a nice shine and didn't darken the leather a much as I feared- just a nice warm tone that goes very nicely with the orange leather:

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This is one of the test shoes on the new flat last I'm testing - just a basic slip on with contrast topline binding:

I'm still working on getting the binding consistent, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going to tweak this pattern a bit, plus I have two styles lined up for patterning tomorrow.

Last update and progress on the cycling shoes

2010-08-20T17:40:00.008-05:00

Last week I received the new last samples as expected and I've been working working steadily with those. I've also been making significant progress on the bike shoe last and sample shoes. So, kind of a long update!
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I am so far pleased with the pointed flat last (it really needs a new name!) - it seems to only need mild tweaking. I am working on some samples for fitting (more on that after the pictures).

I do need people to test this last on (three, preferably) - size 8. If you are in Chicago and you think you are a good candidate with healthy size 8 feet (6 1/2-ish in mens') please contact me at: erickw (at) riotgeer (dot) com to discuss the particulars. I'll make a dedicated post after I've made some samples up.
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The Guntons' (which I was very excited to work with again) are being vexing - and need some extra work. I like this toe so very much, so hopefully I'll be able to shake out the issues soon.

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The cycling shoe last has been going very well - I made some final tweaks to it after the last fit model, so I'm confident to have copies made for use. Until then, I've remodeled it's mate and I'm working on a working sample:

I've only cut and assembled a single shoe, since I want to check for surprises. This orange leather is something I've been hoarding for a number of years - I think it will be difficult to get more of it (sorry for the tease). On the other hand, this shoe might be a good candidate for the crust leather I was experimenting with last spring. The temperament of the crust was too firm for what I originally wanted to do with it - but perfect for this, I think!

I am continuing the external stiffeners from the last mock-up - I should have this reasonably close to finished this weekend. One of the guys at my bike shop fits this last, but I'd love to try it on additional people - if you are interested and wear a size 10 medium width (11 1/2-ish womens'), please contact me.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

2010-08-09T20:03:00.004-05:00

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

Last Progress

2010-08-06T18:23:00.005-05:00

I talked to my last maker yesterday and he thinks he'll get my samples out today (fingers crossed!). According to his measurements the "Princess" measures quite a bit wider than I calculated - that's why I'm getting samples - at least it's some information I can compare with the process I use.

Also yesterday, I threw a heel stiffener onto the fitter model for the bike shoe last, so I can get a little bit better information off of it. A few of the guys at my bike shop tried it on. The results were interesting and also caused me to reexamine my assessment of the fit on myself.

Today, I experimented with some ideas I had for taking measurements from the foot and the last and apply better information. After fairly extensive reshaping of the last it measures true to a 10D:

This weekend I'll redraft the patterns and make a new fitter. If all goes well, I still need to reshape the mate to this one. Hopefully I'll have some WIP to show off on Monday or Tuesday.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued

2010-08-04T17:11:00.005-05:00

Today I finished the preliminary patterns and cut this upper for testing. It still needs some tweaking, but it is unlined with an external counter and toe-box. The main body is a perforated cowhide I found at the discount fabric store and the vamp reinforcement is punched for decoration and to expose the perfs:

Experimenting with a decorative stitch for shaping the back curve:

For some really neat decorative stitching on footwear- check out the site of a former student of mine who is studying in London: Michelle Quick

WIP- Cycling Shoes

2010-08-01T21:38:00.005-05:00

While I am waiting on the samples of the Gunton and "____" lasts, I've been working a little bit towards progress on an athletic style last. I have a stock last from my last maker that I've heavily modified that I hope is a good candidate for the cycling shoes I've been poking and prodding at on a very irregular basis. This quick fit model shows promise and I can start on a new working prototype:

This is just some of the first steps for fit which must be verified before investing in more expensive materials and techniques (composites and clipless pedal systems).

I am also experimenting with getting information from an existing pair of shoes that I felt fit me pretty good- this I can use as a base-line for original lasts, since fit can be an ephemeral goal sometimes.

WIP- last making, continued

2010-07-18T12:09:00.003-05:00

On Friday I finished the new flat last model, as well as finally putting some work into correcting some issues with the Gunton last. They are both on their way to my last-maker to get sample pairs turned- once I figure out how many sizes I can actually afford to try out (I have one or two people interested in the Gunton, maybe?).

Once again, I'll be hoping for a couple of feet to test the fit of the flat last (size 8 and _?). Fitting is focusing on the flat last, as I hope to do some lightweight slipper/casual shoes that I can produce relatively inexpensively, even as one-offs. The shape of he Gunton really requires heavier leathers and robust constructions that I will have to limit to semi-custom.

I have yet to decide on a name for the flat last- in a rush to pack it up, I named it Princess, but I'm not remotely thrilled with that. I like the idea of using a family name, like with the Gunton - if any family type people actually read this blog, I'm taking suggestions - the more obscure the better?!

WIP- last making

2010-07-13T18:15:00.004-05:00

Distracted from Etsy projects (boo, me!) - this is a new last that I've been poking and prodding at:

Perhaps not obvious from the pictures, I've also modified the woodworking bench so that the vise is mounted to a leg for better stability, my various rasps have useful homes, and there's space (currently occupied by random chunks of wood and lasts) for a special knife for shaping lasts.

Done!

2010-06-21T13:31:00.002-05:00

These are going to Michigan with me tomorrow to meet their new home- Here's hoping I got the fit right!

Ties should go up on Etsy tonight (thank you hurricane force winds on Friday!)- other items will be finished and put up when I get back from MI next week.

Q C

2010-06-10T10:44:00.001-05:00

MacBackPack

2009-05-26T21:47:00.004-05:00

After a long absence, I'm back. The spring semester is over, so I have time to get more aggressive with some of my projects.

I recently finished up a backpack built for a 17" Macbook with sleeve.

The leather is a medium weight harness latigo. Once I got the pattern settled, one of the hardest parts was getting the right weight stitching- closer to a harness weight cord, than sewing thread that I usually use for footwear. It really inspired me to do some more designs based around the construction details.

I used rivets for the first time as both decorative and functional details.

Doing the internal pocket proved more vexing than expected- probably more to do with the fact that I haven't built a fabric pocket with a zipper in close to ten years:

So with summer here, I should be adding more projects to the blog.

Until next time,

Erick

NAHBS Pictures!

2009-03-03T14:49:00.000-06:00

I've gotten the pictures edited and labeled, here is a link to 137 pictures from the show.

North American Handmade Bicycle Show!

2009-02-26T20:35:00.000-06:00

I'm very, very excited about my early birthday present- on Saturday Morning I'm hopping on a bus to Indianapolis to attend the North American Handmade Bicycle Show.

I first heard about this show last year when it was in Portland.Lots of very pretty bicycles should be on hand if last years examples are anything to go by- that's where that bull-horned bamboo bike from Calfee was shown. Many makers that I only know from trawling the web will be there with the very best examples of their craft on display- I's so excited....

I am bringing my camera, and I plan on taking many pictures which will find their way here.

Erick

P.S.: I've made a few changes to the blog- There are links to the blogs I read regularly, and I'm trying out the "followers" widget.

Veldtschoen Photo essay

2009-01-10T00:00:00.003-06:00

Here is the completed photo essay on building a veldtschoen-or stitchdown- style boot:

This is not a perfect example, but I'll point out some general aspects of the veldtschoen:

This is a very casual construction, especially without mechanical assists used in factory production and it has a distinct look that exaggerates the shape of the toe.

Construction:
The primary feature is the upper being flanged out to create a shelf for the upper to be sewn to a midsole- sometime referred to as a runner. In most constructions, a particular lasting pincer is used, which has a hammer to lever over the last bottom and pull it tight. Without this assist it is extremely difficult to get the vamp area tight to the last- even after using some questionable aids....

The last for a veldtschoen should have a distinct feather edge all round, with a full arch. When machine stitching the midsole on, it is desirable to have a bevel all round the feather edge of the last. As in the photos, the shoe is presented to the outsole stitcher "bottoms-up". The work table presses against the shoe upper and the curved awl passes through a hole in it, which is set back between 1/16th and 1/8th inch from the leading edge. The bevel in the last allows the work table to press the upper into the void. This offsets the distance of the awl passing through the hole, placing the stitch right at the crease. The photos don't illustrate this adequately and will need to be supplemented with illustrations later.

Aesthetics:
Depending on the leathers chosen, some construction details- both desirable and not- will show through in the end.
Many shoemakers employ side linings in both cemented and sewn footwear- this is not very practical in this application and soft leathers are going to give it a "slipper-ish" look to the way the material holds the foot. It is not unusual for Veldtschoens to be unlined.

Other leather choices will certainly offer different results- I will certainly build this way again. Given the leathers I go back to time and time again, my inclination is to focus on my previously favored variation.

I hope you find this informative. Comments- whether for clarification- or correction- are welcome.

Complicated Patterns Plus More Last Remodeling

2008-11-07T18:43:00.008-06:00

Continuing my exploration of athletic style uppers, here is my latest work-in-progress:

The beige leather is some orthopedic hide I picked up several years ago- stretchy, but still heavy. Stains easily for that lived-in look sooner rather than later. The spongy hand made some of the edge stitching disagreeable

The rust-ish color is a totally random find from the ren-faire last summer. It's a split- the color caught my eye and it was dirt cheap. My students could tell you how I grumble about split leathers, but I may have to concede that it could have its uses.

I'm crossing my fingers that they make a good combination.
______________________________
Last remodeling- small update:

I am continuing the last remodeling as a demo for my students. The photo below shows the leather feathered to the last:

The changes to the bottom will necessitate re-contouring the sides and bottom shape.

Morning in Chicago

2008-10-26T19:45:00.000-05:00

A couple of images of the city at dawn courtesy of my phone just a few days ago:

We get some interesting cloud formations at the lakefront. On some mornings it looks like downtown is sitting in front of a massive stage curtain.

A few months ago, I took this shot of high rises from the lakefront path:

New Concept Illustrations

2008-08-10T17:58:00.002-05:00

A few recent projects for my portfolio, broken into a couple of entries.

First off, a pair of designs illustrated in marker and pencil on paper. As an exorcise in branding, I've worked Pumas branding into the construction. The two designs shared a color story, though one is distinctly more tongue in cheek. I worked through a couple of ideas for closures and settled on lacing for the trail runner. The yellow "cleats" I'm envisioning in a firmer material I'm calling a skeleton. Bottom drawings are still a WIP:

The trailosaurus uses a stretch fabric "sock" with a strap and pinch snap fastener. The aggressive cleats referencing teeth and bony protrusions on dinosaurs:

New Folding Boots

2008-08-10T17:30:00.000-05:00

Before flying to Las Vegas, I finished up these new versions of the folding boot. This time, I used a wool blend felt and Horweens rust leather on the outside and the customers blue leather to line the shaft:

Simple Sandal Project, plus an inquiry

2008-06-08T21:54:00.003-05:00

As a demonstration for my students, I documented the creation of a simple pair of sandals.

When i first started learning about shoes, this was a project we were required to do, as a way to get us familiar with the landscape of the foot.

And anyways, footwear can't always be complicated, can it?

On another note, I've been flirting with some simple projects- not brilliant design, but stuff that's fun and close to my other interests. I've made a pair of leather handlebar grips:

They are very crude right now, but let me know if this is something you are interested in.

Bicycle Shoes Final

2008-06-03T18:10:00.003-05:00

I finished the bicycle shoes today (minus one detail):

I dyed and waxed the sole and edges for a finished look. For a heel, I just used a western boot toplift. They fit with the look of the shoes.

The outsole still needs to be stitched on, but it may be a while before I can make arrangements to use someones stitcher. Overall I am very pleased with the results. My main goals were to use a different method of standard forme production, and to make an athletically styled shoe. Functionally I think it will take a few more to get the everything where I want it without using hi-tech materials.

I need to:

1) Stiffen the shank area further.
2) Lighten and clean the composite sole
3) Install cleats

Over all I think the upper needs a little more body, which will require a few further materials changes. My bike mechanic really liked the composite sole and agreed that it appeared that it would accept a cleat pretty well.

Tomorrow, I'll need to dig out a pair of trainer insoles and see about wear-testing them.

Erick

British Bicycling Videos and Pictures from the DesPlaines River Trail

2008-05-23T18:42:00.000-05:00

I found these videos by way of a comment on the website of Acorn Bags. It is one film presented in two sections via YouTube. This just make me giddy and want to move to the UK in the 1950's.

Part 1:

Part 2:

This is the person who posted these clips.

Last weekend, after totally failing to keep up with a group ride out to a northwest suburb, I decided to take the afternoon and try a trail out west. The route is the DesPlaines River Trail- I got to take my bike off pavement for the first time! Here are some pictures:

Here is where I entered from Higgins road:

I almost missed it, here is Higgins road from inside:

Once the trail opened up, it was quite spectacular- especially since I don't get to see the inside of woods very often:

I stopped off where the trail ran right along the river and posed my bike to look quite adventurous!:

And finally, a horrible, horrible picture of a young buck that didn't seem to know what to make of me and my bike:

Original Folding Boot

2008-04-23T08:04:00.007-05:00

I was rummaging around my old photo files and found some old work. Below are some pictures of the original model for these boots:

The original models were done with the same Italian leather for the vamp, but the outer shaft is in a locally made garment leather and lined in blue and pink plaid flannel!

I had a lot of fun with the materials.

I'm also throwing in a picture of another pair in progress:

Wheels!

2008-04-22T08:37:00.000-05:00

After the loss of my Sojourn, I had to find another bike. A while ago, I had sat on a Raleigh Mojave 2.0 to check size, and found it comfortable. I looked in numerous places for a comparatively priced bike that I wasn't appalled by and went with it:

It's not the kind of bike I'm usually into, but it is pretty comfortable, and I will be able to upgrade things easily enough. Before I took it home, I had the shop install my fenders and rack previously installed on my Schwinn. And since most things look good in leather, I've splurged and installed a Brooks B-17 saddle:

Not the best photo- improvements to follow.

Bicycle Shoe Project

2008-04-20T22:35:00.006-05:00

One of my recent fascinations are bicycle shoes. Last year I picked up a pair of older (early 90's/late 80's NOS?) SIDI bike shoes- which I promptly took apart to see how they tick. A few days ago I picked up another pair of Italian shoes that look older than they really are (apparently). The shoes are interesting for a few reasons: the uppers are of an incredibly simple pattern, the combination of detailing and material choices to define the functionality and the hardware requirements.

I'm using these shoes as reference pieces to explore a bit of performance footwear, combining full leather construction with the functionality required of a bicycling shoe.

Instead of creating an original last for this exploration, I've had one of my lastmakers pick an athletic last model with a high toe-spring from his library to copy. Pictured is the pair of lasts, One of them is carefully taped for patterning.

I'll update on this project as it progresses.

Erick

Handmade Show Slideshow

2008-04-20T10:41:00.003-05:00

As promised a few posts back, I've created a slideshow from the photo essay on the creation of shoes. Later tonight I'll post some on that other project.

The process I use allows me to give preferential treatment to certain leathers, and gives a certain look. It is a combination of contemporary cement construction and a rustic "veldtschoen" (field shoe)- also called a stitch-down. The result is a shoe that is quite sturdy.

Enjoy:

Gunton 2007

2008-04-15T23:09:00.007-05:00

Lest anyone who hasn't looked at my website (which hasn't been updated in ages) think I only use the Elf last, I thought I would post a pair of shoes I did last spring.

The design is a classic oxford with a button closure. I used a last I started developing for mens or menswear styles- I call it the Gunton, named after my father and grandfather. The last was introduced at the One of A Kind Show and Sale 2006 (!).

I'm really pleased with the color combinations- rust quarters with black galosh and antiqued brass buttons. The upper leathers are locally made here in Chicago, while the lining is a veg-tan of unknown origin.

These are pretty typical of the aesthetic I've been developing over the last few years. If time allows, I'm going to pull together a handstitched shoe on this last.

Erick
__________

Up next: I'm currently working on a bicycle style shoe, which I'll post some pictures in a few days.

April 1st- no joking around, please

2008-04-01T16:47:00.000-05:00

Here is a picture of my new bike- I'm still waiting on the new stem, but I'm slowly mounting some of my old road bike accessories.

The weekend it arrived I road it out to the Chicago Bike Show at the Donald E Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont. Somewhere around fifteen miles to get there, rode back about ten miles after a bus ride to more familiar surroundings. It didn't even occur to me that one of the things I picked up at the show was a bike map of Chicago and northeast Illinois (slaps hand on forehead). The route I took out there was pretty sketchy once traffic picked up for the day.

I thought I would include a couple of pictures of a pair of feral cats that have adopted us.

We affectionately call them "the Buddies" since they've been joined at the hip since they were kittens in the alley. We had been saying hi and talking to them for months until one day Orange followed me home and sat outside the door in wait. During the worst of the Chicago winter, we started giving him our leftovers before graduating to bag of kibble (our cat Lori has special dietary needs, so she doesn't share). Eventually Orange brought along Little Girl- a scruffy, timid and cross-eyed tabby- we think they are brother and sister. For feral cats they certainly don't act the part- we're pretty sure one of our neighbors was also feeding them for a while and at the same time as us (sneaky!). Little girl is still skittish, but both of them like us to hang out on the porch while they eat. Orange likes to get his head scratched and won't be getting any points for being an independent spirit (though he guards the porch from other cats fiercely).

Bull-Horn-ed bike

2008-02-13T22:22:00.000-06:00

Short post, but browsing through a gallery of photos from the 2008 North American Handbuilt Bike Show, I saw this picture:

The bike frame is made out of bamboo- it's by Calfee Design, who specialize in carbon fiber frames- here is the link directly to the Bamboo line. I think the bull horns make it.

I don't know this person that took the picture, but if you're interested in bicycles check out his gallery I linked above.

I'm getting a touring bike if the stars align- I'll post pictures when it happens.

Erick

Red Shoes

2007-11-15T08:29:00.003-06:00

I am still deciding on how I want to present the photo essay- I abbreviated it further for a forum on shoe-making- only elaborating on specific construction details that deviate from some traditional or common types of shoe constructions. Even the short-short version is twelve images- I think it may be best to create a gallery, rather than post directly into the blog posts. Ah, decisions... until then, read on.

Back in June of 2007 I closed my "factory" space. This is one of the last few pairs of shoes I made before then that have not been placed on my main web site: riotgeer.com.

This is a pair of red shoes with a single set of eyelets with a French-bound edge. This was the first time I've ever used this type of edge treatment- I threw away several attempts. The final piece turned out alright, though it will need further refinement if I am to do it again. The shoe upper itself is essentially a pump, but the eyelet flanges presented a more complicated edge to bind. Most examples I've handled used bias fabric and present a much more delicate edge.

Handmade Shoes

2007-11-02T20:25:00.004-05:00

As promised, here is a picture of the shoes made for the Handmade exhibit. Black t-strap mary-jane style with fire-engine red counter-covers. The black and red leather I used is locally produced.

Erick

Reviewing 2007: process

2007-11-02T10:49:00.001-05:00

At the beginning of 2007 I participated in an exhibit of handmade arts and goods at the Chicago Tourism Center Gallery. For the exhibit I produced an abbreviated photo essay on the steps I use to create shoes.

The image is of myself standing with the display. Behind me is the photo essay. In the display case are the resulting shoes I made for my fiance Leigh Ann.

I will be posting more images from this exhibit- including the shoes.

Erick

Folding Boots

2007-10-31T12:43:00.004-05:00

I thought that for my first post I would show a picture of my most recent creations.

These boots were made for a colleague where I teach and based on an experimental boot from a couple of years ago. The vamps or "galoshes" are made from an Italian Veg-tan leather. The boot shafts are in an "antiqued" garment leather, lined with denim-weave linen.

I hope you enjoy this introduction to what I do.

Erick