WIP- last making, continued

On Friday I finished the new flat last model, as well as finally putting some work into correcting some issues with the Gunton last. They are both on their way to my last-maker to get sample pairs turned- once I figure out how many sizes I can actually afford to try out (I have one or two people interested in the Gunton, maybe?).






Once again, I'll be hoping for a couple of feet to test the fit of the flat last (size 8 and _?). Fitting is focusing on the flat last, as I hope to do some lightweight slipper/casual shoes that I can produce relatively inexpensively, even as one-offs. The shape of he Gunton really requires heavier leathers and robust constructions that I will have to limit to semi-custom.

I have yet to decide on a name for the flat last- in a rush to pack it up, I named it Princess, but I'm not remotely thrilled with that. I like the idea of using a family name, like with the Gunton - if any family type people actually read this blog, I'm taking suggestions - the more obscure the better?!

WIP- last making

Distracted from Etsy projects (boo, me!) - this is a new last that I've been poking and prodding at:




Perhaps not obvious from the pictures, I've also modified the woodworking bench so that the vise is mounted to a leg for better stability, my various rasps have useful homes, and there's space (currently occupied by random chunks of wood and lasts) for a special knife for shaping lasts.

Done!

These are going to Michigan with me tomorrow to meet their new home- Here's hoping I got the fit right!

Ties should go up on Etsy tonight (thank you hurricane force winds on Friday!)- other items will be finished and put up when I get back from MI next week.

Q C

MacBackPack

After a long absence, I'm back. The spring semester is over, so I have time to get more aggressive with some of my projects.

I recently finished up a backpack built for a 17" Macbook with sleeve.



The leather is a medium weight harness latigo. Once I got the pattern settled, one of the hardest parts was getting the right weight stitching- closer to a harness weight cord, than sewing thread that I usually use for footwear. It really inspired me to do some more designs based around the construction details.



I used rivets for the first time as both decorative and functional details.





Doing the internal pocket proved more vexing than expected- probably more to do with the fact that I haven't built a fabric pocket with a zipper in close to ten years:


So with summer here, I should be adding more projects to the blog.

Until next time,

Erick

NAHBS Pictures!

I've gotten the pictures edited and labeled, here is a link to 137 pictures from the show.

North American Handmade Bicycle Show!

I'm very, very excited about my early birthday present- on Saturday Morning I'm hopping on a bus to Indianapolis to attend the North American Handmade Bicycle Show.

I first heard about this show last year when it was in Portland.Lots of very pretty bicycles should be on hand if last years examples are anything to go by- that's where that bull-horned bamboo bike from Calfee was shown. Many makers that I only know from trawling the web will be there with the very best examples of their craft on display- I's so excited....

I am bringing my camera, and I plan on taking many pictures which will find their way here.

Erick

P.S.: I've made a few changes to the blog- There are links to the blogs I read regularly, and I'm trying out the "followers" widget.

Veldtschoen Photo essay

Here is the completed photo essay on building a veldtschoen-or stitchdown- style boot:



This is not a perfect example, but I'll point out some general aspects of the veldtschoen:

This is a very casual construction, especially without mechanical assists used in factory production and it has a distinct look that exaggerates the shape of the toe.

Construction:
The primary feature is the upper being flanged out to create a shelf for the upper to be sewn to a midsole- sometime referred to as a runner. In most constructions, a particular lasting pincer is used, which has a hammer to lever over the last bottom and pull it tight. Without this assist it is extremely difficult to get the vamp area tight to the last- even after using some questionable aids....

The last for a veldtschoen should have a distinct feather edge all round, with a full arch. When machine stitching the midsole on, it is desirable to have a bevel all round the feather edge of the last. As in the photos, the shoe is presented to the outsole stitcher "bottoms-up". The work table presses against the shoe upper and the curved awl passes through a hole in it, which is set back between 1/16th and 1/8th inch from the leading edge. The bevel in the last allows the work table to press the upper into the void. This offsets the distance of the awl passing through the hole, placing the stitch right at the crease. The photos don't illustrate this adequately and will need to be supplemented with illustrations later.

Aesthetics:
Depending on the leathers chosen, some construction details- both desirable and not- will show through in the end.
Many shoemakers employ side linings in both cemented and sewn footwear- this is not very practical in this application and soft leathers are going to give it a "slipper-ish" look to the way the material holds the foot. It is not unusual for Veldtschoens to be unlined.

Other leather choices will certainly offer different results- I will certainly build this way again. Given the leathers I go back to time and time again, my inclination is to focus on my previously favored variation.

I hope you find this informative. Comments- whether for clarification- or correction- are welcome.

Complicated Patterns Plus More Last Remodeling

Continuing my exploration of athletic style uppers, here is my latest work-in-progress:


The beige leather is some orthopedic hide I picked up several years ago- stretchy, but still heavy. Stains easily for that lived-in look sooner rather than later. The spongy hand made some of the edge stitching disagreeable

The rust-ish color is a totally random find from the ren-faire last summer. It's a split- the color caught my eye and it was dirt cheap. My students could tell you how I grumble about split leathers, but I may have to concede that it could have its uses.

I'm crossing my fingers that they make a good combination.
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Last remodeling- small update:

I am continuing the last remodeling as a demo for my students. The photo below shows the leather feathered to the last:

The changes to the bottom will necessitate re-contouring the sides and bottom shape.

Morning in Chicago

A couple of images of the city at dawn courtesy of my phone just a few days ago:




We get some interesting cloud formations at the lakefront. On some mornings it looks like downtown is sitting in front of a massive stage curtain.

A few months ago, I took this shot of high rises from the lakefront path:

New Concept Illustrations

A few recent projects for my portfolio, broken into a couple of entries.

First off, a pair of designs illustrated in marker and pencil on paper. As an exorcise in branding, I've worked Pumas branding into the construction. The two designs shared a color story, though one is distinctly more tongue in cheek. I worked through a couple of ideas for closures and settled on lacing for the trail runner. The yellow "cleats" I'm envisioning in a firmer material I'm calling a skeleton. Bottom drawings are still a WIP:

The trailosaurus uses a stretch fabric "sock" with a strap and pinch snap fastener. The aggressive cleats referencing teeth and bony protrusions on dinosaurs:

New Folding Boots

Before flying to Las Vegas, I finished up these new versions of the folding boot. This time, I used a wool blend felt and Horweens rust leather on the outside and the customers blue leather to line the shaft:

Simple Sandal Project, plus an inquiry

As a demonstration for my students, I documented the creation of a simple pair of sandals.

When i first started learning about shoes, this was a project we were required to do, as a way to get us familiar with the landscape of the foot.

And anyways, footwear can't always be complicated, can it?

On another note, I've been flirting with some simple projects- not brilliant design, but stuff that's fun and close to my other interests. I've made a pair of leather handlebar grips:

They are very crude right now, but let me know if this is something you are interested in.

Bicycle Shoes Final

I finished the bicycle shoes today (minus one detail):


I dyed and waxed the sole and edges for a finished look. For a heel, I just used a western boot toplift. They fit with the look of the shoes.


The outsole still needs to be stitched on, but it may be a while before I can make arrangements to use someones stitcher. Overall I am very pleased with the results. My main goals were to use a different method of standard forme production, and to make an athletically styled shoe. Functionally I think it will take a few more to get the everything where I want it without using hi-tech materials.

I need to:

1) Stiffen the shank area further.
2) Lighten and clean the composite sole
3) Install cleats

Over all I think the upper needs a little more body, which will require a few further materials changes. My bike mechanic really liked the composite sole and agreed that it appeared that it would accept a cleat pretty well.

Tomorrow, I'll need to dig out a pair of trainer insoles and see about wear-testing them.

Erick

British Bicycling Videos and Pictures from the DesPlaines River Trail

I found these videos by way of a comment on the website of Acorn Bags. It is one film presented in two sections via YouTube. This just make me giddy and want to move to the UK in the 1950's.

Part 1:

Part 2:


This is the person who posted these clips.

Last weekend, after totally failing to keep up with a group ride out to a northwest suburb, I decided to take the afternoon and try a trail out west. The route is the DesPlaines River Trail- I got to take my bike off pavement for the first time! Here are some pictures:

Here is where I entered from Higgins road:

I almost missed it, here is Higgins road from inside:


Once the trail opened up, it was quite spectacular- especially since I don't get to see the inside of woods very often:


I stopped off where the trail ran right along the river and posed my bike to look quite adventurous!:


And finally, a horrible, horrible picture of a young buck that didn't seem to know what to make of me and my bike:

Original Folding Boot

I was rummaging around my old photo files and found some old work. Below are some pictures of the original model for these boots:


The original models were done with the same Italian leather for the vamp, but the outer shaft is in a locally made garment leather and lined in blue and pink plaid flannel!


I had a lot of fun with the materials.

I'm also throwing in a picture of another pair in progress:

Wheels!

After the loss of my Sojourn, I had to find another bike. A while ago, I had sat on a Raleigh Mojave 2.0 to check size, and found it comfortable. I looked in numerous places for a comparatively priced bike that I wasn't appalled by and went with it:


It's not the kind of bike I'm usually into, but it is pretty comfortable, and I will be able to upgrade things easily enough. Before I took it home, I had the shop install my fenders and rack previously installed on my Schwinn. And since most things look good in leather, I've splurged and installed a Brooks B-17 saddle:



Not the best photo- improvements to follow.

Bicycle Shoe Project

One of my recent fascinations are bicycle shoes. Last year I picked up a pair of older (early 90's/late 80's NOS?) SIDI bike shoes- which I promptly took apart to see how they tick. A few days ago I picked up another pair of Italian shoes that look older than they really are (apparently). The shoes are interesting for a few reasons: the uppers are of an incredibly simple pattern, the combination of detailing and material choices to define the functionality and the hardware requirements.

I'm using these shoes as reference pieces to explore a bit of performance footwear, combining full leather construction with the functionality required of a bicycling shoe.

Instead of creating an original last for this exploration, I've had one of my lastmakers pick an athletic last model with a high toe-spring from his library to copy. Pictured is the pair of lasts, One of them is carefully taped for patterning.



I'll update on this project as it progresses.

Erick

Handmade Show Slideshow

As promised a few posts back, I've created a slideshow from the photo essay on the creation of shoes. Later tonight I'll post some on that other project.

The process I use allows me to give preferential treatment to certain leathers, and gives a certain look. It is a combination of contemporary cement construction and a rustic "veldtschoen" (field shoe)- also called a stitch-down. The result is a shoe that is quite sturdy.

Enjoy:

Gunton 2007

Lest anyone who hasn't looked at my website (which hasn't been updated in ages) think I only use the Elf last, I thought I would post a pair of shoes I did last spring.

The design is a classic oxford with a button closure. I used a last I started developing for mens or menswear styles- I call it the Gunton, named after my father and grandfather. The last was introduced at the One of A Kind Show and Sale 2006 (!).



I'm really pleased with the color combinations- rust quarters with black galosh and antiqued brass buttons. The upper leathers are locally made here in Chicago, while the lining is a veg-tan of unknown origin.

These are pretty typical of the aesthetic I've been developing over the last few years. If time allows, I'm going to pull together a handstitched shoe on this last.

Erick
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Up next: I'm currently working on a bicycle style shoe, which I'll post some pictures in a few days.