They Will Be Shoes!

I am working on some shoes for something upcoming (tease!) and I'm working on modding a pair of athletic lasts I've had floating around for a bit. The project is coming up soon enough that the lasts and shoes need to be good first time out, so I'm taking it slow and steady.

The technique for reducing the vertical height of the last uniformly from the bottom of the last uses a flex-shaft, drill bit and a stop-collar:



I've drilled two different depths, so when I rasp down the remaining material, I will have to blend the curves:



A little tool I've had for many years, that has proven to be invaluable to me, is this little miniature spoke shave. I use it to make fine adjustment and smooth out the bottoms of lasts:


I have a great deal of shaping left to do, so I'm expecting to be working on it most of the week between other projects and studying/research:

Dye!

I had one of those happy accidents that can yield some really neat results. When mixing dye for a project, I got this sweet acid green that contrasts really neatly with a tipping of orange when it's applied to a textured leather:


I'm experimenting with finishing techniques to keep the brightness and high contrast - otherwise, it results with the color close to what I was actually shooting for (but am less excited about):


Bikes have been on my mind a lot lately, so here is my photo album from the 2009 NAHBS... just because everything is so very, very pretty:

Organizing the Studio, Organizing the Blog!

I am still tweaking it and deciding what is going to stay on the about me page, but check it out. I've made an entry that talks about the kind of projects I am particularly keen to work on.

I've created a new page describing my three primary last styles. All of my lasts are available for doing custom work, including ones not showcased on my lasts page.

I may have mentioned that I wanted to build a new cutting table and possibly a divider wall? Well, as a birthday present, I was able to purchase the materials - yes! Consequently, the studio was shut down for a couple weeks(!) while I was building. I'm still cleaning (oh, the dust!) and organizing, but it is really very cool that I'm finally able to give things a proper home.

This is the new cutting table - it is very much overbuilt, but I can really heap abuse on my studio furnishings, so this is a good thing. It has a very large shelf underneath that will someday have drawers to protect rolled up leather:

Two of the legs have heavy duty casters so I can move it wheelbarrow style:


These are not the most brilliant of pictures, since the quarters are close, but I built a dividing wall to separate the "clean" from "messy" areas of the studio. One side is paneled with smooth white paneling that works as a white board to take notes on:


And on the back side, it is paneled with peg board to hang my tools over my shoemaking bench:


While the inevitable scrapes and bruises are healing, I'm putting everything away and creating task areas, such as a dedicated dye/airbrush station for working on my custom dyed pieces.

Along with everything else, the small leather goods were put on hold during the building, but I did pick up a fantastic piece of leather from Horween - it was a splurge, but it will make some really nice pieces.

This coming month is turning into a really busy time! There's some really exciting stuff I should be able to announce soon, plus I should have a few more items on Etsy soon, so keep an eye out.

State Two

The elaborate new text stuff is delayed - boo! Though I have made some good progress on it.

This is a picture of some wallet prototypes I'm working on:


They look pretty good in the picture, but I need to troubleshoot some more. I'm happy with the patterns, but I need to either 1: change the leather, 2: use a different machine than my collection, or 3: both. These are some of the items that I'll have up on Etsy soon-ish.

On a related note, I'm going to visit the tannery when I get back from a trip to Michigan - I'll be looking at new leathers for the small goods projects and shoes. I'm also looking for leather for the bike shoes and the studio dyed/colored leather investigation since one or both projects will be coming off of hiatus.

So, I'm getting back up to speed, and the studio- while still a work in progress- is becoming functional.

State of My State

Just a quick post!

I am working on some new small items for sale, so keep an eye out for new stuff in my Etsy shop soon - some will be companion pieces for some existing designs, and some will be stand-alone items.

I have edited the text at my Etsy shop to clarify that I am happy to discuss custom items, and also renewed the expired listings.

Upcoming! I've started working on some new descriptions of what I'm working on, as well as the kind of work I am particularly happy to be approached about. I'm looking at the end of the week to have the updates up.

I am excited to be discussing collaborations with a couple of Chicago designers, and I hope to share some of that in the future!

Til later,

Cheers

A Coat

Before moving into the new studio, I made a few pieces - some personal projects and gifts/prototypes (see previous post).

I've been desperately in need of a new coat, but I wasn't in a position to go out an get something, and I didn't have time to start drafting something from scratch. I've been checking out the Burdastyle website for a while now, and I found a coat pattern that had some elements I liked. It was originally meant to be a spring-weight piece, so I needed to alter the pattern to allow for a lining, heavier fabric, and room enough for layering sweaters and such. I had some denim fabric I'd been saving for some pants that I decided would be put to good use for the coat. For warmth, I used a cotton flannel you might recognize from the original folding boot prototype:



When I was working at the cafe, my hands were really taking a beating, so the processes that are crucial to shoemaking were not pleasant, to say the least. I have been wanting to get back into some cut and sew stuff for a while, so it was a good alternative for the state of my hands. A lot of the knitwear pieces I've put together recently had, um, issues... I don't know how much was machine error, improper machine, or just me being out of practice. The coat was a good project for me, since I was able to remind myself of some of the particulars of using woven materials vs. leather. It certainly has some issues - awkwardly executed intersections in particular, but overall I'm pleased - and I have a new coat!

Prototype Bags and Gifts

For the holidays, I made gifts for my family.

For my Dad, Sister and Brother-in-law, I made bags. The original pattern was one I found on Burdastyle, but I made significant changes to it, adding in elements and finishing techniques I like to use. I was using these pieces for prototyping - I'd like to be able to make these for sale now that I've gotten a sense of what worked and what needs to be changed. I had to use a machine at the school to do the finishing, so if I want to continue to develop this bag, I'd like to invest in a new sewing machine, so it will probably be a while.

All of the materials were things I had on hand, except for some strapping (that I kept running out of) and some interfacing. I made one for myself, so I could get first-hand sense of how well they work. All leather with a fabric lining:


For my Dad, I used leather for the back and flap (in one piece) and a fabric with a similar feel to waxed cotton for the front body and lining:


For my sister, I used leather for the front flap, and felt for the body. It is lined in a purple cotton twill:




For my Brother-in-law, I used a navy blue garment leather I'd been hoarding for years and black trim. Since they were the colors of Cobra from the G.I.Joe comic, I decided it was time to use a patch I picked up from a comic shop many years ago:


All of them have a drawstring to prevent water from getting into the body when the flap is down, but they can open up wider for ease of access.

As they are now, the bags are one big compartment - I installed snaps for combining accessories like pockets (to be designed later).

For my Mom, I knitted this hat - it's another of the first hat I knitted for myself. I'm kind of obsessed with some of the elements in the design:


I've been continuing to knit. With my energy level low for a while, I spent a lot of time knitting various personal projects. I've really become addicted to it - I haven't started designing original pieces yet, but I'm getting confident that I can start putting to paper some ideas I've had floating around in my head.

New Year and New Stuff

It's been ever so long since I last updated here. I've had a lot going on- right now I'm home with an ick that's going around which may or may not be the flu. With three months of updates, I've broken this down into three separate posts that I will publish over the next couple of days.

I may have mentioned that I was looking for a job a while back, just something to pay the bills, since I haven't been aggressive trying to make money through the studio. Well, I did get a part time job at a cafe. It drained me pretty well, so I wasn't being too active at the studio. I've never really settled into the space with the pretty massive amount of stuff I crammed into it, so it felt like it took a lot of energy just being there.

At the beginning of February, my landlords asked me if I wanted to move into a different space - it suited me much better as far as space, layout and lighting. I jumped on it pretty quickly and made an agreement to move in by the February fifteenth. With the help of a couple of friends, I got everything shifted to the new space in record time.


I agreed with such short notice, that I didn't have time to consider placement, so it turned into a major project to move things into their proper positions. I finally have everything placed pretty well.




I'd like to build some shelves and dividers, but for now I'm trying to focus on making the space usable, so I can get back to work. I really, really need to get back to work. Just a few days after I officially came into possession of the new space, I found out that the cafe I'd been working at was closing down - just terrible, terrible timing for me. I'm looking for a job again, and trying to focus on a couple of paying jobs I have that got back-burnered. I have a few pieces I'd like to develop - non-shoe stuff that can be accessible and comparatively easier to produce.

Gunton Lasts, Items For sale and others

I have a few pairs of shoes in progress on my Gunton last, which has given me an opportunity to analyze them in relation to multiple feet - all different sizes, but still useful information. Through this, I think I'm well on my way to resolving it's issues. This picture shows the dismantled lasts with early stages of modification:


These are pretty massive changes, made more complicated by the V-cut hinges. If budget wasn't a concern, I would have liked the opportunity to remake the model from scratch, as every last I make is an improvement on my knowledge and execution of last design.
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At the 3311 Carroll Open Studio Day, I talked to a lot of people about what I'm working on. I think I've finally found one fit model for the new last I've been developing - I still need one or two more!
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Visitors to the studios got to see the leather neckties I make, as well as some necklaces. The listings for them on Etsy expired prior to the the open studios - these are back up and running. These are first run of samples on the new materials, so they are being sold at a lower price of $35 - the next ones will be in the $50-$60 range.

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When I come across interesting shapes and patterns, I like to take pictures for reference and inspiration. Walking around recently, I came across this utility pole - I don't know what I'll do with it yet, but it's neat:

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Since I mentioned it in the last post, I thought I'd share a couple of picture. of the hat I knitted - I'm working on a new one with variations and a different yarn:



I found the pattern on Ravelry - it is designed by these folks.
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Well, I have to go do some work - have a good week!

Happy Halloween!

I have been pretty busy the last couple of weeks, and it isn't stopping. The highlight has been a trip up to Wisconsin for the annual meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers Company, where once a year, shoemakers, shoe historians and enthusiasts meet up to talk, share information and hang out.

The meetings are always fantastic, as it is the one place I get to be surrounded by others engaged in the trade or practicing the craft - which is truly inspiring. Unfortunately I've only been able to make it to the gatherings that are hosted by a friend just over the border to the north - the last two were in entirely different parts of the country, so I really, really needed to make the connection this year.

I am very happy that I was able to attend this year, plus I was pleasantly surprised when I found that three of my former students were in attendance!

In the studio, I've let a lot of non-shoe and leather projects invade, so I've been doing some organizing and paring down to regain my focus- the Cordwainers meeting has me pumped to work!

What else have I been working on? Well, my major projects are still in development, so they aren't making any money yet- and won't for quite a while. I am working on a few commissions, but they aren't enough to pay the bills I've been accumulating, so I'm out there looking for a job- hopefully there's at least some seasonal work for me.

In my off-time, I've been learning to knit! I've always liked knits and fibers, and a number of my students have incorporated knitting, crochet and weaving into their footwear projects, plus my sister's been knitting for a while. It was only a matter of time before I gave it a try.... Over the summer (or was it late spring?) I took a class, but I put it aside until I got interested in a project. When I was helping my sister find some yarn, I found a hat pattern I thought was pretty cool. The hat is just about done and my hands are sore... I'm actually looking forward to the next project!

I'm thinking of writing up a blurb describing my aesthetic influences and interests to incorporate into my about page and I'm digging out some more old work that might make appearances in the portfolio pages. Don't forget to check out some of the blogs of interest in the sidebar- there's some pretty cool stuff! New to the list is the Blog from shoemakers CarreDucker- they describe a lot of traditional shoemaking techniques, and have mentioned a former student who is doing some amazing stuff in grad school.

I have to get to the studio now - I hope to see some of you next week. Here's a picture of a shoe I made several years ago when I was playing around with variations on "monkey boots":

Site Design - done for now

I continued to tweak the site into Monday, and got some kind of satisfaction on the title and background image combination. This is a happy medium - because the background is fixed and the blog content adjusts to browser window size - it will change from user to user.

This setup will stay for a while (not including planned additions to the pages tab). The next couple of weeks are going to be busy, but hopefully I'll be able post some new (or new old) stuff.

P.S.: I still need fit models! Please check out this post from September 15th.

New Stuff and Testing Blog Changes

Updated - if you type in www.riotgeer.com - you will now be redirected to the www.riotgeer.blogspot.com !

I'm trying out new looks and layouts, so the blog will change periodically over the weekend.

In new features, I've added a news page below the header - check it out for the latest activities - currently the top item is the 3311 Carroll Open Studios coming up November 7th.

Finally, I've added a few more pieces to the footwear portfolio page. Here's a one of my favorites from Riotgeer Design Co. - the Football Shoe on the Gunton Last:

Open Studio Day, November 7th, 2010

Save the date to visit the artists at 3311 West Carroll:

Pictures From A Train...

I've been out out of town since last week. Here are some pictures I shot with my cell phone on the train from Michigan yesterday morning - the fog made everything eerie and beautiful...

Update September 25, 2010

I've activated some changes that I started working on at the last update, namely the pages feature.

Below the title banner, you will now find links for three pages (more to come!):

Home is the main blog page for navigating form the other pages.

There is now an about me page - I do take on commissions, so feel free to contact me about potential projects!

The final page is the first of some portfolio pages - this one is specifically a footwear portfolio. I will be adding to this with new work, as well as older- as I dig through my archives. The current images are sample sheets showing a variety of works in progress, which I hope you will enjoy. More pages to come will include fashion design, and miscellaneous including ancient history from college.

My search for fit models continues - if you think you are a candidate for being a fit model, please send me an e-mail with "fit model" in the subject.

Fit Models Needed, Happy Accidents and Other Projects

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail attached to this post and site!)

Over the weekend I finished putting together two styles of fitter shoes on the flat last. They were delayed because I need to make some last minute changes to the last after pulling over what was supposed to be the first fitter.


So, I need two to three people to be fit models - from last weeks post:

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width (edit: if you happen to be at a shoe store that uses one- get yourself measured on a ladies Brannock Device). I get about by bicycle and If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address with "fit model" in the topic:

curious@riotgeer.com

I'll continue developing designs for the "collection", but until I can do fit evaluations, the flat last will be put on the backburner. I'm pretty excited about this last, so I'm hoping to get some responses for potential fit models soon.
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I thought I'd share some details on the fitter. I designed the lacing placket on the tied shoe on a whim, and I really like it. I think I can incorporate it into a collection of styles I'm developing for this last:


I like happy accidents that can inspire details in a project. While lacing up the fitter, the lace got twisted and caught on the toe- this could be a neat detail if I can work it into a toe cap or some-such so it is functional:

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Other items:

While I'm setting aside the flat last development until fitting, I'm going to try to make progress on the bike shoe.

I'm also working on some small cut and sew items that I can make up for sale. The small bags got stalled in a big way (ridiculous technical details - blah), but I'm hoping to make some progress while working on other new items.

The leather ties have been languishing in Etsy oblivion - I haven't gotten any feedback on them and it's frustrating. They are kind of stand-alone items right now - they need other similarly styled offerings nearby to grab attention. Something else to figure out - input on how to market them or even other items (related or not) you'd like to see would be greatly appreciated.

That's all for now - time to get to the studio!