Velo Trials and Taking Commissions

I mentioned in the last post that I'm planning some major changes coming up soon. Until then, I am taking commissions! I'd also like to do another Velo shoe trial. My timeline doesn't really afford to order new lasts, but I do have opportunity to make shoes. To do it, I need at least six pairs ordered. Did you want to know what sizes I have of the Velo last? Well, here they are: 6C, 8C, 9C, 9.5 C and D, 10C, 10.5 B and C, 11 B and C, 11.5 B, 12C, 12.5 D. Thanks and goodnight!

Finished Projects!

This past week I either finished or shipped my most recent projects - the ankle boots and the second trial versions of the Velo shoes.

These ankle boots are done in Horween leather from my library. The upper design is a blend of a derby and a balmoral design - well suited to using contrasting materials:

The foot is a Black-cherry Chromexel that I've been holding onto for years (gorgeous, but too heavy for most of my work), and the tops are out of the Vintage Buccaneer London-bus Red. The lining and tongue are the Vermont lining leather in the Wakami color.

The construction is my stand-by of the semi-stitch-out construction, finished with a wedge heel and a ripple sole.

I happy with the way these came out!
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I've also finished the second trial of the Velo shoes:

The first two are in the Buccaneer leather with Vermont facings:

  

This second one was done as a special request. I had the lasts available, so I was able to make the pair in two different sizes. You might be able to pick it up in the full size image, but I altered the facing pattern a little to minimize bulk around this customers particular foot:

  

This pair is done in a new leather I picked up as a potential replacement for the Rust Buccaneer. It's a bit too thick to use as both uppers and facings - especially in toeclips - but this customer doesn't bike, so it's not an issue. My supplier hasn't been stocking the small sizes of the rubber sole I've been using for walking soles, so it has a different option:

 

I did make a pair for myself this go-round. I used an odd piece of Horween leather I had lying around with some of the scraps from an Italian veg-tan I had left-over form a project several years ago. They match a set of toeclips I wrapped when I was working them out for a customer. I'll try to grab a shot later of them together:

 

Overall, I'm happy with this version of the Velos. There are some definite improvements over the first version, but some of the others I'd like to find a happy medium on. As far as time and efficiency, it is better for me to do a larger number of pairs in a run, but it was good to see the results of some bits on a small scale.

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I'm working on some non-paying projects currently, but I am taking new jobs - and don't forget to check out my Etsy store for my small leather goods!

Velo V2 Update

I've been waiting to post an update on the new version of the Velo shoes until there was visual evidence. I'm pressed fro time, but here's a couple items.

A big plus has been working machines - I'm no longer forced to run all over to sew bits and bobs elsewhere! After some fiddling, I figured out what was wrong with my one machine for zig-zagging the seams. Much neater and they only require minor reinforcement before the facings get sewn on:



Recently, I acquired a new walking foot machine. This one can sew pretty heavy materials - and specifically - I can use a very heavy sewing thread which I like the look of. With a special attachment I can apply seam binding easily - initially I wanted this for building bags, but it also makes a particularly vexing part of the Velo's much easier and cleaner. I'm still working trouble shooting a bit, but it is a vast improvement over V1:


The tongues now have retainer tabs on them to keep them from wandering off to the side:


There are some other changes to the patterns, but I'm waiting until they're lasted to show them. Some relatively unseen changes are to the internal structures and the lasts, that should improve some of the problematic finishing on the first ones.

I'm about to finish the backs, and move on to the toes and tongues:



In non-Velo news, here's a picture of a pair of ankle boots I'm working on:


Don't forget to check out my Etsy store to see my new wallets!

Gotta run!

March-ing forward!

Ha! Sorry, couldn't resist.

I'm keeping busy. Working on some new accessories (really - don't laugh!), continuing some custom commissions... and of course the second trial of the Velo Shoes!

With only a bit of hesitation, I think you can expect to see a couple new additions to my Etsy store next week. It came up this evening, so I though I should mention it - I don't sell my shoes through Etsy - maybe in the future? Anyway it's all small goods and accessories. Someday I'd like to have a second shop to delineate my Velo items from my others. Still just an idea for the time being.

Velo updates:

I received the New iterations of the Velo lasts on Friday, and I finished cleaning them up and making a couple of small changes yesterday. Today I started "felling the masking tape forests" as part of the patterning process. There will be a few small changes to the uppers - a combination of functional and aesthetic considerations.

In addition to the shoes, I'm also prototyping an ankle boot version... we shall see.

I made a trip to Horween to look at some new leather - one of my most popular selections is at it's end. It was purchased several years ago, so it will be very nearly impossible to replace it. I'm really taken with this new one - here is a wallet I made to demonstrate the colors for a Velo customer:



While it's too late to order more sizes, I do have a decent size selection as of now - let me know if you are interested in Velo Version 2 and we can talk sizes.

I've finally gotten new cards using the bike-centric motif I'm using for the Velo project. Just the start of promotional materials I need to put together:



I think there're a few other things, but they can wait. Don't forget to like my Facebook page - I've been adding WIP pictures a little more frequently than the blog posts!

Velo Trial stage 2!

I still need to work up a proper post, but the condensed version is that I already have new orders for the Velo shoes, so the second trial is happening sooner than expected! I'm taking sizes and deposits - the last models are already on their way to the last maker, so if you're interested e-mail me at curious@riotgeer.com soon!

I feel like I have a million things to update about, but I need to eat now.

Velo! Velo! Done!

Last week I finished the Velo shoes! On Saturday, I delivered most of them, with the very last ones delivered and shipped yesterday.

So far the feedback I've gotten on them is good. It's not the best riding conditions for many people to ride in them, but yesterday a customer left our meeting on her bike with Velos on her feet!

Before delivering, I took some better photos and this morning I did a little color correction. Please enjoy this slideshow - you can click over to Picasa to see them full size:


I'm pretty excited to move to the next phase of the Velo project, though i think it's safe to say there will be some hiatus. Once I get some new projects progressing and catch up on some others, I'll make a page dedicated to the Velo Project. I have a number of ideas for moving forward that I'll share once I digest them a bit more.

I'll update soon!

Soled and Waiting!

Well, the leather soles are on and the lasts are out!

The Velo shoes are in boxes and waiting to meet a special stitching machine before I can put the heels and rubber half-soles on. I'm looking into shoe repair shops to do the work and I'll be taking them in next week after I do a little extra research.

It's not quite the weekend, but have a good one! Please enjoy the slide show of the Velo shoes so far...

Do you Facebook?

I did it. I created a Facebook page for my work and there is now a "Like" button over there on the right hand side of the screen, above the blog description. Among other things, I'll be posting more WIP photos so people can see what I'm working on between blog posts. Go ahead - you know you want to!

In other news, the lasting of the Velo Shoes is going well. Currently, all of the lasts are occupied, so the remaining pairs must be patient.

The lasting that I've been showing off so far have not been cemented to the insole boards yet - if you were my students, I would have called it pre-lasting.

I have started cementing! These are the ones with more uppers waiting in the wings:



This is good!

Bike Shoes Update 8/18/11

It's been a while since the last update, but things are picking up speed after some delays.

The person copying my lasts for me had to delay the production, but they are back on the job now! I need to visit family next week, but the lasts should be waiting for me when I get back. Once the lasts are in hand, I'll check them over and the patterning process starts.

I've been keeping busy while waiting on the lasts. I'm still in the process of replenishing my materials and supplies, but that is very nearly completed. I've been working on sample shoes to tweak the patterns and try out a couple of additional material varieties:



Above is an upper using my Horween "rust" leather with the trim worked from one of the scrap bin leathers - it's a pretty neat combination.



The second upper is from a waxier Horween latigo with a softer hand than the original red - I bought this option for customers that need more flexibility. The black trim is the same material from the tongue and top binding.

Both of these tests use a slightly different pattern layout on the toe and backstrap reinforcing:


I welcome comments on the pattern arrangement - sometimes subtle changes bring about dramatic reactions - what do you think?

With things being delivered next week, I will become crazed with shoemaking and I'll be hitting the ground running.

For a slight distraction from the bike shoes theme, next week I'll post pictures of pair of shoes that are moments away from being finished.

Now - I have work to do!

P.S.: I still have a sewing machine for sale!

Bike Shoes Update 7/12/11

This is just a really quick post to say that I've closed the pre-orders for my bike shoes trial run. The last model is on it's way to my last-maker. On order are twelve pairs of shoes to be made once the lasts come back.

While I'm waiting for the lasts, I'll be collecting supplies that need to be restocked and start discussing color and detail options available to the customers.

Then I get to be the crazed shoemaker!



In case you're bored with the same picture over and over again, I'll give you something new to look at next time!

There are a few details to work out, but there will be some more announcements to be made in the near future. I'm applying to participate in an event coming up that I'll post once I've heard back.

Cheers!

Bike Shoes Are Go! Plus a Boston Trip Recap

Fantastic news!

I seem to have met my minimum to start on the trial run of the bike shoes!

It would be great to get a few more people in on this, so give me a ring or send a message if you are interested. I plan on sending my bike last to be copied by the end of the week, so I need a final list of sizes by Monday, July 11th.

If you are local, it's possible that I can measure you myself (depending on time and your distance from me or proximity to CTA trains) - It's nice to talk to people in person - so it's preferable if it's possible.

Oh, and FYI: Because this isn't meant to be custom, you don't need to be local or follow a rigorous measuring protocol to take part in this.


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Boston was blast!

I was able to make the trip because there were a number of things going on - a high school reunion, networking with bike folks, pedorthics research and then on to a family reunion in Rhode Island to celebrate my parents birthdays. This trip was packed, and long and cool.

Did I mention long? It's been ages since I've left town for more than a few days - here I've been back a week and I'm still getting back into a groove, if you've made it this far into the post, you already know why I'm especially excited right now!

Out of shear luck, the tenants where I crashed in Boston were mostly involved with bikes somehow, so I got off to a great start meeting people just by staying put and hanging out (thanks Laurel!). Besides the where I stayed (and the reunion), I also got to to have a great time hanging out and catching up with some old friends!

I have rediscovered how bad my sense of direction can sometimes be by wandering around Boston. I probably would have been better off without trying to geek-out with the map program on my phone and just submitted to looking like a tourist - I can actually read a map, though you wouldn't know it if you'd seen me. Ha!

I still managed to stop by Geekhouse Bikes in Boston and Royal H Cycles in Somerville (as well as an unplanned visit to Independent Fabrications!). Thanks everyone for taking time out to talk, show me cool stuff and chat about how and why we make things.

I made it in to a few bike shops - both for eye-candy and to see what is what. Fitters at two locations of Wheelworks indulged me in conversation about how various fitting systems incorporate footwear issues (and vice-versa). Superb Bicycles in Boston was a pretty cool shop to visit - cool bikes and a cool selection of bike-centric clothing.

From Boston, I bussed it to Rhode Island to hang out with extended family (that I don't see often), immediate family (that I should see more often) and wish my parents a happy birthday!

My flights were mostly uneventful and now I'm back in Chicago!

Now, I have a bunch of stuff to make happen, so I'm signing off. I hope you've had a lovely Fourth of July weekend and you're looking forward to a great week ahead.

Cheers!

Updates Before I'm Boston Bound!

I am leaving for Boston tomorrow morning! While I'm away, I'll be checking my e-mail to discuss the bike shoe project, etc...

The Bike Shoe trial is listed at the top of my News Page

I'm just starting to add descriptions to the work on the footwear portfolio page - just a bit at a time.

Cheers!

Bike Shoes Trial Run!

So, yesterday I mentioned I want to do a trial run on the bike shoes - here is an updated version of the proposal:


The basic design is engineered to be pretty quick builds, so I can make them relatively inexpensively. Since the big hurdle is the cost of getting the lasts copied, I need a small group of interested people to put down deposits. While, I'm not comfortable stating it here, I have a trial price in mind that should at least cover a small range of lasts, the materials, plus help me keep the lights on. This is for handmade - not made to measure - bike shoes for use with clips and straps (heck, there's nothing that says you need to use these on a bike!). If you are interested, contact me and we'll discuss what options* there are and how to proceed. I'm not asking for specific sizes - give me a shout and we'll see if a natural range results. I am thinking at least six people will make it a go, and I need to know soon, as it takes some time to get the lasts copied.

It will help speed things up greatly if - before you contact me - you get your feet measured using a Brannock device at your local shoe store. Whether you identify M/F or other, please have them use the mens' device. Make sure you are standing up for the measuring of both feet. The instructions for the use of these devices have changed over the years - your particular store might not follow this set.

I have to get back to the studio, now, but please get in touch if you are interested or you have questions.

Cheers!

* I know not everyone wants bright red shoes - color is one of the points to discuss with me!

There Will Be More Bike Shoes!

Now that the Bike Chic fashion show is over, it's time to keep going!



I'm really liking the bike shoes so far, but I'm hoping to get a few people into other sizes this summer. The basic design (the red ones) are designed to be pretty quick builds, so I can make them relatively inexpensively. I still haven't costed them out, but I'd love to chat about it if you are interested. The big hurdle is the cost of getting the lasts copied. If I can get a few people in different sizes interested in putting down deposits on handmade - not made to measure - bike shoes for use with clips and straps - we can discuss a reasonable price. I don't have specific sizes in mind yet, so give me a shout and we'll see if a natural range results. I need to know soon, as it takes some time to get the lasts copied.

I'd like to play with composite lay-up, but that may dramatically increase the price - I will discuss it if there is interest.

On a related note (to handmade bike stuff anyway), I'll be visiting the Boston area very soon. I'm hoping to get an opportunity to meet some bike framebuilders while I am there - give me a shout if you are one and you have time for a chat, or maybe you know someone and can get me in touch.

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I need to make space both at home and at the studio, so....

I'm selling one of my bikes - here's the craigslist ad.

I am selling one of my industrial sewing machines. This is the Consew flatbed straightstitch machine with reverse. It has a nearly new clutch motor and K-legs with a heavy wood top - I'll be asking $200 as is (which is a good deal for those parts alone) - I'll up the price if I decide to lug the head to the machine shop to have it checked out. Contact me ASAP if you want it as is- there is no listing for it yet.

Bike Chic Fashion Show Is Next Week!

Hey everybody! Just a friendly reminder that Chicago is presenting the Bike Chic fashion show on Thursday June 9th at noon in Daley Plaza!

I'll be providing the shoes to designer Seth Meyerink-Griffin's two looks on the runway. We should be doing the fittings on Saturday and I'm waiting until the show to post the final pics of the shoes.

On a related note, I've updated my About page a little bit, and I'll probably be making a significant post after the show next week.

Have a good weekend, and I hope to see people at the show if you're local!

Fit Models Needed, Happy Accidents and Other Projects

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail attached to this post and site!)

Over the weekend I finished putting together two styles of fitter shoes on the flat last. They were delayed because I need to make some last minute changes to the last after pulling over what was supposed to be the first fitter.


So, I need two to three people to be fit models - from last weeks post:

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width (edit: if you happen to be at a shoe store that uses one- get yourself measured on a ladies Brannock Device). I get about by bicycle and If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address with "fit model" in the topic:

curious@riotgeer.com

I'll continue developing designs for the "collection", but until I can do fit evaluations, the flat last will be put on the backburner. I'm pretty excited about this last, so I'm hoping to get some responses for potential fit models soon.
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I thought I'd share some details on the fitter. I designed the lacing placket on the tied shoe on a whim, and I really like it. I think I can incorporate it into a collection of styles I'm developing for this last:


I like happy accidents that can inspire details in a project. While lacing up the fitter, the lace got twisted and caught on the toe- this could be a neat detail if I can work it into a toe cap or some-such so it is functional:

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Other items:

While I'm setting aside the flat last development until fitting, I'm going to try to make progress on the bike shoe.

I'm also working on some small cut and sew items that I can make up for sale. The small bags got stalled in a big way (ridiculous technical details - blah), but I'm hoping to make some progress while working on other new items.

The leather ties have been languishing in Etsy oblivion - I haven't gotten any feedback on them and it's frustrating. They are kind of stand-alone items right now - they need other similarly styled offerings nearby to grab attention. Something else to figure out - input on how to market them or even other items (related or not) you'd like to see would be greatly appreciated.

That's all for now - time to get to the studio!

WIP 8-24-10

I've formed the bike shoe test upper over the last - I need to make a few minor tweaks to the pattern, but I like the way it looks so far:



To provide additional stiffness and protection to the external stiffeners, I applied a few coats of shellac. This is a bit of an experiment - shellac is popular with some vintage bicycle enthusiasts for treating handlebar wrap, and I though it would be a nice addition on this shoe- as it is based on vintage styles. It gives it a nice shine and didn't darken the leather a much as I feared- just a nice warm tone that goes very nicely with the orange leather:


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This is one of the test shoes on the new flat last I'm testing - just a basic slip on with contrast topline binding:


I'm still working on getting the binding consistent, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going to tweak this pattern a bit, plus I have two styles lined up for patterning tomorrow.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued

Today I finished the preliminary patterns and cut this upper for testing. It still needs some tweaking, but it is unlined with an external counter and toe-box. The main body is a perforated cowhide I found at the discount fabric store and the vamp reinforcement is punched for decoration and to expose the perfs:



Experimenting with a decorative stitch for shaping the back curve:


For some really neat decorative stitching on footwear- check out the site of a former student of mine who is studying in London: Michelle Quick

Done!

These are going to Michigan with me tomorrow to meet their new home- Here's hoping I got the fit right!

Ties should go up on Etsy tonight (thank you hurricane force winds on Friday!)- other items will be finished and put up when I get back from MI next week.