Finished Projects!

This past week I either finished or shipped my most recent projects - the ankle boots and the second trial versions of the Velo shoes.

These ankle boots are done in Horween leather from my library. The upper design is a blend of a derby and a balmoral design - well suited to using contrasting materials:

The foot is a Black-cherry Chromexel that I've been holding onto for years (gorgeous, but too heavy for most of my work), and the tops are out of the Vintage Buccaneer London-bus Red. The lining and tongue are the Vermont lining leather in the Wakami color.

The construction is my stand-by of the semi-stitch-out construction, finished with a wedge heel and a ripple sole.

I happy with the way these came out!
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I've also finished the second trial of the Velo shoes:

The first two are in the Buccaneer leather with Vermont facings:

  

This second one was done as a special request. I had the lasts available, so I was able to make the pair in two different sizes. You might be able to pick it up in the full size image, but I altered the facing pattern a little to minimize bulk around this customers particular foot:

  

This pair is done in a new leather I picked up as a potential replacement for the Rust Buccaneer. It's a bit too thick to use as both uppers and facings - especially in toeclips - but this customer doesn't bike, so it's not an issue. My supplier hasn't been stocking the small sizes of the rubber sole I've been using for walking soles, so it has a different option:

 

I did make a pair for myself this go-round. I used an odd piece of Horween leather I had lying around with some of the scraps from an Italian veg-tan I had left-over form a project several years ago. They match a set of toeclips I wrapped when I was working them out for a customer. I'll try to grab a shot later of them together:

 

Overall, I'm happy with this version of the Velos. There are some definite improvements over the first version, but some of the others I'd like to find a happy medium on. As far as time and efficiency, it is better for me to do a larger number of pairs in a run, but it was good to see the results of some bits on a small scale.

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I'm working on some non-paying projects currently, but I am taking new jobs - and don't forget to check out my Etsy store for my small leather goods!

Velo V2 Update

I've been waiting to post an update on the new version of the Velo shoes until there was visual evidence. I'm pressed fro time, but here's a couple items.

A big plus has been working machines - I'm no longer forced to run all over to sew bits and bobs elsewhere! After some fiddling, I figured out what was wrong with my one machine for zig-zagging the seams. Much neater and they only require minor reinforcement before the facings get sewn on:



Recently, I acquired a new walking foot machine. This one can sew pretty heavy materials - and specifically - I can use a very heavy sewing thread which I like the look of. With a special attachment I can apply seam binding easily - initially I wanted this for building bags, but it also makes a particularly vexing part of the Velo's much easier and cleaner. I'm still working trouble shooting a bit, but it is a vast improvement over V1:


The tongues now have retainer tabs on them to keep them from wandering off to the side:


There are some other changes to the patterns, but I'm waiting until they're lasted to show them. Some relatively unseen changes are to the internal structures and the lasts, that should improve some of the problematic finishing on the first ones.

I'm about to finish the backs, and move on to the toes and tongues:



In non-Velo news, here's a picture of a pair of ankle boots I'm working on:


Don't forget to check out my Etsy store to see my new wallets!

Gotta run!

Bike Shoes Are Go! Plus a Boston Trip Recap

Fantastic news!

I seem to have met my minimum to start on the trial run of the bike shoes!

It would be great to get a few more people in on this, so give me a ring or send a message if you are interested. I plan on sending my bike last to be copied by the end of the week, so I need a final list of sizes by Monday, July 11th.

If you are local, it's possible that I can measure you myself (depending on time and your distance from me or proximity to CTA trains) - It's nice to talk to people in person - so it's preferable if it's possible.

Oh, and FYI: Because this isn't meant to be custom, you don't need to be local or follow a rigorous measuring protocol to take part in this.


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Boston was blast!

I was able to make the trip because there were a number of things going on - a high school reunion, networking with bike folks, pedorthics research and then on to a family reunion in Rhode Island to celebrate my parents birthdays. This trip was packed, and long and cool.

Did I mention long? It's been ages since I've left town for more than a few days - here I've been back a week and I'm still getting back into a groove, if you've made it this far into the post, you already know why I'm especially excited right now!

Out of shear luck, the tenants where I crashed in Boston were mostly involved with bikes somehow, so I got off to a great start meeting people just by staying put and hanging out (thanks Laurel!). Besides the where I stayed (and the reunion), I also got to to have a great time hanging out and catching up with some old friends!

I have rediscovered how bad my sense of direction can sometimes be by wandering around Boston. I probably would have been better off without trying to geek-out with the map program on my phone and just submitted to looking like a tourist - I can actually read a map, though you wouldn't know it if you'd seen me. Ha!

I still managed to stop by Geekhouse Bikes in Boston and Royal H Cycles in Somerville (as well as an unplanned visit to Independent Fabrications!). Thanks everyone for taking time out to talk, show me cool stuff and chat about how and why we make things.

I made it in to a few bike shops - both for eye-candy and to see what is what. Fitters at two locations of Wheelworks indulged me in conversation about how various fitting systems incorporate footwear issues (and vice-versa). Superb Bicycles in Boston was a pretty cool shop to visit - cool bikes and a cool selection of bike-centric clothing.

From Boston, I bussed it to Rhode Island to hang out with extended family (that I don't see often), immediate family (that I should see more often) and wish my parents a happy birthday!

My flights were mostly uneventful and now I'm back in Chicago!

Now, I have a bunch of stuff to make happen, so I'm signing off. I hope you've had a lovely Fourth of July weekend and you're looking forward to a great week ahead.

Cheers!

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

WIP- Cycling Shoes

While I am waiting on the samples of the Gunton and "____" lasts, I've been working a little bit towards progress on an athletic style last. I have a stock last from my last maker that I've heavily modified that I hope is a good candidate for the cycling shoes I've been poking and prodding at on a very irregular basis. This quick fit model shows promise and I can start on a new working prototype:



This is just some of the first steps for fit which must be verified before investing in more expensive materials and techniques (composites and clipless pedal systems).

I am also experimenting with getting information from an existing pair of shoes that I felt fit me pretty good- this I can use as a base-line for original lasts, since fit can be an ephemeral goal sometimes.

Bicycle Shoe Project

One of my recent fascinations are bicycle shoes. Last year I picked up a pair of older (early 90's/late 80's NOS?) SIDI bike shoes- which I promptly took apart to see how they tick. A few days ago I picked up another pair of Italian shoes that look older than they really are (apparently). The shoes are interesting for a few reasons: the uppers are of an incredibly simple pattern, the combination of detailing and material choices to define the functionality and the hardware requirements.

I'm using these shoes as reference pieces to explore a bit of performance footwear, combining full leather construction with the functionality required of a bicycling shoe.

Instead of creating an original last for this exploration, I've had one of my lastmakers pick an athletic last model with a high toe-spring from his library to copy. Pictured is the pair of lasts, One of them is carefully taped for patterning.



I'll update on this project as it progresses.

Erick