Finished Projects!

This past week I either finished or shipped my most recent projects - the ankle boots and the second trial versions of the Velo shoes.

These ankle boots are done in Horween leather from my library. The upper design is a blend of a derby and a balmoral design - well suited to using contrasting materials:

The foot is a Black-cherry Chromexel that I've been holding onto for years (gorgeous, but too heavy for most of my work), and the tops are out of the Vintage Buccaneer London-bus Red. The lining and tongue are the Vermont lining leather in the Wakami color.

The construction is my stand-by of the semi-stitch-out construction, finished with a wedge heel and a ripple sole.

I happy with the way these came out!
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I've also finished the second trial of the Velo shoes:

The first two are in the Buccaneer leather with Vermont facings:

  

This second one was done as a special request. I had the lasts available, so I was able to make the pair in two different sizes. You might be able to pick it up in the full size image, but I altered the facing pattern a little to minimize bulk around this customers particular foot:

  

This pair is done in a new leather I picked up as a potential replacement for the Rust Buccaneer. It's a bit too thick to use as both uppers and facings - especially in toeclips - but this customer doesn't bike, so it's not an issue. My supplier hasn't been stocking the small sizes of the rubber sole I've been using for walking soles, so it has a different option:

 

I did make a pair for myself this go-round. I used an odd piece of Horween leather I had lying around with some of the scraps from an Italian veg-tan I had left-over form a project several years ago. They match a set of toeclips I wrapped when I was working them out for a customer. I'll try to grab a shot later of them together:

 

Overall, I'm happy with this version of the Velos. There are some definite improvements over the first version, but some of the others I'd like to find a happy medium on. As far as time and efficiency, it is better for me to do a larger number of pairs in a run, but it was good to see the results of some bits on a small scale.

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I'm working on some non-paying projects currently, but I am taking new jobs - and don't forget to check out my Etsy store for my small leather goods!

Veldtschoen Photo essay

Here is the completed photo essay on building a veldtschoen-or stitchdown- style boot:



This is not a perfect example, but I'll point out some general aspects of the veldtschoen:

This is a very casual construction, especially without mechanical assists used in factory production and it has a distinct look that exaggerates the shape of the toe.

Construction:
The primary feature is the upper being flanged out to create a shelf for the upper to be sewn to a midsole- sometime referred to as a runner. In most constructions, a particular lasting pincer is used, which has a hammer to lever over the last bottom and pull it tight. Without this assist it is extremely difficult to get the vamp area tight to the last- even after using some questionable aids....

The last for a veldtschoen should have a distinct feather edge all round, with a full arch. When machine stitching the midsole on, it is desirable to have a bevel all round the feather edge of the last. As in the photos, the shoe is presented to the outsole stitcher "bottoms-up". The work table presses against the shoe upper and the curved awl passes through a hole in it, which is set back between 1/16th and 1/8th inch from the leading edge. The bevel in the last allows the work table to press the upper into the void. This offsets the distance of the awl passing through the hole, placing the stitch right at the crease. The photos don't illustrate this adequately and will need to be supplemented with illustrations later.

Aesthetics:
Depending on the leathers chosen, some construction details- both desirable and not- will show through in the end.
Many shoemakers employ side linings in both cemented and sewn footwear- this is not very practical in this application and soft leathers are going to give it a "slipper-ish" look to the way the material holds the foot. It is not unusual for Veldtschoens to be unlined.

Other leather choices will certainly offer different results- I will certainly build this way again. Given the leathers I go back to time and time again, my inclination is to focus on my previously favored variation.

I hope you find this informative. Comments- whether for clarification- or correction- are welcome.