It can't really be July, can it?

I'll try to keep this short, as I need to get to the studio.

July is here and I'm busy with projects continuously nearly ready to set free upon the world. I have a ridiculous number of things on the fire at the studio. It's not set in stone, but I'm planning a pretty major life upheaval at the end of the summer, so I'm trying to move my projects forward.

New Work

A couple of items I've shown on the Facebook page, like the Beltpouch and the Envelopes are essentially done, but I need orders to accommodate purchasing materials. I may put a few Envelopes together from semi-random materials I have floating around the studio and sell those for somewhere around $120 (I kind of desperately need to do some inventory cataloging/reduction, so who knows what they'll look like!).

I need to purchase a number of supplies for the Beltpouches, but depending on the materials an all woven fabric one will hover somewhere around $80.

Velo Shoes

I would really like to do another trial of the Velo shoes before the summer ends, but I need at least six pairs on order to start. I can't purchase new last sizes right now, so I need to limit the run to what I have on hand - if I have a chance, I'll put up a list of sizes, but contact me soon! I have to assume at least a month to get a run completed, and I need the run completed before the end of August.

Etsy Sale

I need to sell some of my Etsy inventory to clear space for new items, so for July I've created a coupon for twenty percent off - at checkout, use the code MINUSTWENTY to get a deal.

There is also a code for free shipping if you're within biking distance of me (I'm more or less downtown Chicago) - you can contact me to find out if you fall into my area (sometimes subject to the whims of my bike - not me, I swear!).

Finished Projects!

This past week I either finished or shipped my most recent projects - the ankle boots and the second trial versions of the Velo shoes.

These ankle boots are done in Horween leather from my library. The upper design is a blend of a derby and a balmoral design - well suited to using contrasting materials:

The foot is a Black-cherry Chromexel that I've been holding onto for years (gorgeous, but too heavy for most of my work), and the tops are out of the Vintage Buccaneer London-bus Red. The lining and tongue are the Vermont lining leather in the Wakami color.

The construction is my stand-by of the semi-stitch-out construction, finished with a wedge heel and a ripple sole.

I happy with the way these came out!
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I've also finished the second trial of the Velo shoes:

The first two are in the Buccaneer leather with Vermont facings:

  

This second one was done as a special request. I had the lasts available, so I was able to make the pair in two different sizes. You might be able to pick it up in the full size image, but I altered the facing pattern a little to minimize bulk around this customers particular foot:

  

This pair is done in a new leather I picked up as a potential replacement for the Rust Buccaneer. It's a bit too thick to use as both uppers and facings - especially in toeclips - but this customer doesn't bike, so it's not an issue. My supplier hasn't been stocking the small sizes of the rubber sole I've been using for walking soles, so it has a different option:

 

I did make a pair for myself this go-round. I used an odd piece of Horween leather I had lying around with some of the scraps from an Italian veg-tan I had left-over form a project several years ago. They match a set of toeclips I wrapped when I was working them out for a customer. I'll try to grab a shot later of them together:

 

Overall, I'm happy with this version of the Velos. There are some definite improvements over the first version, but some of the others I'd like to find a happy medium on. As far as time and efficiency, it is better for me to do a larger number of pairs in a run, but it was good to see the results of some bits on a small scale.

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I'm working on some non-paying projects currently, but I am taking new jobs - and don't forget to check out my Etsy store for my small leather goods!

Etsy!

I was traveling last weekend, so I didn't have many opportunities to post my new items to my Etsy store - but some of them are now listed!

I've made some new variations on my wallets, as well as a few of my card cases. The first items I've freshly listed are the wallets I'm tentatively calling the "Apiary" group - they are named for different types of bees and wasps.



Not up yet are some one of a kind wallets from limited materials Maybe tonight or tomorrow?

If you were missing my other wallets - they are back after a momentary disappearance from my store!

I have not posted about my Velo shoes in a while - I'm planning on posting about the changes to this next group, as well as some new stuff in my studio that's going to help with one of the processes that was being difficult - as well as making a huge improvement to my wallets and opening up the possibility of some bags in the future.

Velo, Velo, Velo!

If you aren't following my Facebook Page (which you should, of course!) - you don't know that I've gotten the Velos stitched. I picked them up this weekend, and bought the last of the supplies needed to finish them off.



There was some question of whether I'd be able to get the preferred type of stitch put in. That might have required me to treat the bottoms differently - needing different supplies - so I delayed buying the final bits. Consequently, the supplier ran out of the soles I wanted to use and won't have them back in for a few weeks (ugh)- Fortunately, I had a back up style that should be good and sticky, and textured for bike pedals!

Today I sorted the soles and heels and started prepping the heel parts and the Velos will be the bulk of what I'm working on this week.
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Other items of note:

I should also be working on those wallets I mentioned last post - I'm restocking my snap fasteners, so look for a couple of new wallet styles to show up on my Etsy store very soon.

My wallets weren't a hit at Wolfbait - I'll try some other items there again in the future - but for now you won't find my items for sale there (you should still visit - they have some great stuff!).

If you check out my Etsy items, you'll find that I've lowered the prices on the more expensive items - it's a great time to shop if you're looking for a gift for that special someone (it's basically February, after all). If you are local and you are willing to pick up an item from me (or depending on your location - I'll bring it to you!) there's an Etsy coupon against the shipping - contact me to see if that is an option and get the code!

I have a new phone - if you need to reach me, please contact me via e-mail, as the number on my cards from the last several years is no longer active.

Current Projects and Events!

I've been pretty busy the last few days, so I thought I would post another update.

Lasting continues on the Velo shoes. Between pairs I've been working on some other components and progress is becoming steady.

Just as a point of curiosity, these uppers were designed to last easier/faster - and they are - sort of. Simply being unlined speeds up the process greatly by having less layers and steps, but physically they've been more demanding due to components and materials. The heat activated stiffener material requires additional dexterity between grabbing different tools while warming the material and pulling it into place. The spread of material characteristics adds some intrigue - all of them are suitable, but there is 'just' enough variety to make very distinct differences in the processes and how I compensate for more or less malleability.



I'm using a number of techniques that are either new to me, or I just don't use very often because there isn't any advantage when I'm making things one at a time. I am keeping a list of considerations for the next round - things involving patterns, techniques, and materials/component considerations. I'll definitely have a good idea of how things can be sped up to avoid many of the delays of this trial run.


My other projects are gaining momentum as well.

Currently, I'm in the process of adjusting two pairs of lasts for some boot projects. Soon I'll be fitting those, so pictures will follow once the designs get approved.

I'm working on a few new items for Etsy and Wolfbait and I hope to put a few out there in time for the current gift giving season. A note about the Strap-on Neckties: the current ones were a test batch I was selling at a reduced price. The next time I make a new batch, the price will be going up - so, get them cheap while you can.
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On Saturday evening, I made it out into the world and actually interacted with humans, hurrah!

I like talking to bike folks and meeting framebuilders, and Rob Vandermark of Seven Cycles was in town to speak at the Get A Grip bike fit studio.

It was very cool to hear about the methods Seven uses to build bikes out of titanium, steel, and carbon fiber. Virtually all of their production is custom, so they work with fit studios like Get A Grip who interface with the customers.

I got to chat about the company and a bit about the region. The Boston area has quite a framebuilding history and a special place in my heart , so I hope to get out there again soon. My schedule was very tight the last time I was out there, and I missed Seven when I was visiting framebuilders, but I'll correct that next time.

I was busy talking and listening, so I only took a few pictures of some stuff I've been geeking out over lately:






Until later!

At Lasting!

Sorry, I couldn't resist - as it implies, I have officially begun lasting the Velo shoes!


At the moment, my studio feels like an icebox - I have a spare space heater to bring to the studio, but I am waiting on a Zipcar reservation to drop it off and run an errand. Since I find myself with a few minutes to burn, I can point out some new things on the blog.

I did update the News page, but it is old news if you've been following the blog posts.

In addition to the link to my Etsy store and Wolfbait & B-girls in the side bar, I have added an Etsy page up top. While I was updating the Etsy site, I ran across code that allows me to include a preview of my store or my favorites on the site. I'll be tweaking the dimensions and perhaps ultimately scrapping it, but now you can go to the Etsy page up top and see a selection of my available items, as well as a means to click directly to the actual listings.

For more networking and promotions, I am considering creating a Facebook page. I've almost decided what to call it. Someone has created a completely unrelated page using the same spelling of Riotgeer as me. It leaves me a bit grumpy since I have very specific reasons for spelling it as I do - but I don't think I can do anything about it. Most likely, I'll wind up just using my name (though a few people will understand why I'd rather not do that). As far as business purposes I'd like to not add paperwork to my pile, so I don't want to do an assumed name for my design studio right now.
That said, I would like to get some feedback on the idea of a FB page.

Updates on Velo shoes and the site

Hello all! I am out of town for the holiday, but I have some updates to share with folks.

I think I mentioned this already, but when I was offered the opportunity to use my former employers machine to pick up where one of mine went down, I've also been picking up some shifts. At this shop we make mostly commercial costumes and props and it's all soft sculpture, working with foam and fake-fur and spandex and the like. It's a whole different world from making shoes and small leather goods - and it's been fun.

Between the costume shop and my studio, the Velo shoe uppers are now done - as soon as I get back to Chicago, I can start lasting. Eventually I'll make an album and include the close-ups, but here is a shot of the whole group of completed uppers:


Since I can't be at the studio working, I am taking the opportunity to make a few updates to the site/blog. I've added a new section to the sidebar for links to where you can find my stuff:

I am slowly working on updating my Etsy items (just in time for holiday shopping, right?) - don't forget that I am happy to hear inquiries into custom items through Etsy.

If you want to see some of my small items in person, I do have some items available at the Chicago store Wolfbait & B-girls - they are a great place to see various local and independently produced designs.

There are a few other changes afoot, but I'll save any announcements until they are more concrete.

Whether you celebrate the holiday or not, I hope you get to enjoy good drink, good food and good friends!

Bike Shoes Progress

Things are certainly coming along with the shoes I'm making for the Bike Chic fashion show - here's a look at them so far:


The shellac isn't as nice as the trial I did last year, but I think for now it turns out how it turns out, so they are ready for soling, which starts tomorrow.

The fittings are this weekend, so that is my deadline - maybe I'll have a chance to make up the red ones before the show?


Oh, and visit my Etsy Store and buy things!

These Could Be Yours Now...

They're made of leather and they're for sale!

Small Things!

My headache finally went away late this morning - it's been one of those ones that's not excruciating in the way I imagine a migraine would be, but it sort of clouded everything and made me swear alot. I blame the wacky weather we've been having this Spring. But the good news is I've finished with the fun stuff! I have a pile of small leather items to put up on Etsy:



There really was a pile and there is even photographic evidence because sometimes I'm easily amused... but I can't show it to you now because that camera isn't at home. It also has all the nice pictures of what's about to be up for sale. So tonight and tomorrow morning I'm working on a spreadsheet for costing the items - I'll edit the pictures tomorrow sometime and get the listings up.

I'll be introducing two styles of wallets and two types of single loop key fobs.
The first is the same as ones I did last year, but using Horween leather:


And the second one is the Bondage fob:

Instead of the "D" ring I usually use for the snap to attach, I used a steel "O" ring - not the most original name, but it'll work.

So, I'll leave you with the prototype wallet and say goodnight:

State of My State

Just a quick post!

I am working on some new small items for sale, so keep an eye out for new stuff in my Etsy shop soon - some will be companion pieces for some existing designs, and some will be stand-alone items.

I have edited the text at my Etsy shop to clarify that I am happy to discuss custom items, and also renewed the expired listings.

Upcoming! I've started working on some new descriptions of what I'm working on, as well as the kind of work I am particularly happy to be approached about. I'm looking at the end of the week to have the updates up.

I am excited to be discussing collaborations with a couple of Chicago designers, and I hope to share some of that in the future!

Til later,

Cheers

Fit Models Needed, Happy Accidents and Other Projects

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail attached to this post and site!)

Over the weekend I finished putting together two styles of fitter shoes on the flat last. They were delayed because I need to make some last minute changes to the last after pulling over what was supposed to be the first fitter.


So, I need two to three people to be fit models - from last weeks post:

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width (edit: if you happen to be at a shoe store that uses one- get yourself measured on a ladies Brannock Device). I get about by bicycle and If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address with "fit model" in the topic:

curious@riotgeer.com

I'll continue developing designs for the "collection", but until I can do fit evaluations, the flat last will be put on the backburner. I'm pretty excited about this last, so I'm hoping to get some responses for potential fit models soon.
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I thought I'd share some details on the fitter. I designed the lacing placket on the tied shoe on a whim, and I really like it. I think I can incorporate it into a collection of styles I'm developing for this last:


I like happy accidents that can inspire details in a project. While lacing up the fitter, the lace got twisted and caught on the toe- this could be a neat detail if I can work it into a toe cap or some-such so it is functional:

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Other items:

While I'm setting aside the flat last development until fitting, I'm going to try to make progress on the bike shoe.

I'm also working on some small cut and sew items that I can make up for sale. The small bags got stalled in a big way (ridiculous technical details - blah), but I'm hoping to make some progress while working on other new items.

The leather ties have been languishing in Etsy oblivion - I haven't gotten any feedback on them and it's frustrating. They are kind of stand-alone items right now - they need other similarly styled offerings nearby to grab attention. Something else to figure out - input on how to market them or even other items (related or not) you'd like to see would be greatly appreciated.

That's all for now - time to get to the studio!