Changes to the blog 9-13-10

I've just made some substantial changes to the blog - It's getting pretty crowded in the sidebar, but I think the added stuff might make it interesting/useful.

There is now an e-mail link in the sidebar, to contact me at: curious@riotgeer.com

There is now a sharing link below the posts - Just click on the social media icon of your choice to share it with your friends!

I've made a "pages" link - this is intended more for the future (hopefully soon?) when I want to place information that will be pertinent for longer than the attention span of a blog post.

Deadlines, Samples and Updates

(Edit: I've changed the e-mail associated with this post and site!)

No pretty pictures this post - I've had to put priority on some computer work for the last couple of weeks, so not much time in the studio- I'll be sure to post some of the results.
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The new last and fit models

This week I'll finish the samples on the flat last, so starting this weekend I'll be needing two to three volunteers to try out the new last:

There are multiple stages in the fit process:

1) Determine if a candidate is suitable as a fit model. This involves measuring and evaluating a persons foot - persons who have known issues should inform me of those prior to the "interview" with your feet (please keep in mind that the lasts I design have a fairly generous foot-bed at the ball). If a person falls within the needed range, we move on to step 2.

2) collect data by trying out a fitter shoe/sample on multiple fit models to be used in adjusting the sample last.

3) After a base fit is established, follow up sessions will be used to evaluate individual shoe styles.

My sample size is equivalent to a ladies size 8 in a medium width. I get about by bicycle - If you are within eight or so miles from Garfield park or downtown Chicago, I will travel to you (if you are in close proximity to a CTA train, I might travel further). The initial measuring and evaluation process should take under an hour, and subsequent sessions will likely be only a few minutes depending on whether there are multiple styles to evaluate.

Compensation will be discussed on an individual basis. If you are interested in taking part in this, please send me an e-mail at this address:

curious@riotgeer.com
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Update on the bike shoes

After the previous post I mocked up an insole with fiberglass and epoxy reinforcement. It's been many years since I've experimented with composites, so I was expecting some learning curve.

I need to consult with someone knowledgeable in composites to help nail down the process. In the picture there are significant voids in the laminates and I'm not sure where the problems were introduced. Yes, that is a popsicle stick embedded in the fiberglass:



I'm not at all comfortable with my dust collection system in regards to grinding fiberglass - I'm going to have to put this element on hold until I can solve it.

WIP 8-24-10

I've formed the bike shoe test upper over the last - I need to make a few minor tweaks to the pattern, but I like the way it looks so far:



To provide additional stiffness and protection to the external stiffeners, I applied a few coats of shellac. This is a bit of an experiment - shellac is popular with some vintage bicycle enthusiasts for treating handlebar wrap, and I though it would be a nice addition on this shoe- as it is based on vintage styles. It gives it a nice shine and didn't darken the leather a much as I feared- just a nice warm tone that goes very nicely with the orange leather:


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This is one of the test shoes on the new flat last I'm testing - just a basic slip on with contrast topline binding:


I'm still working on getting the binding consistent, but it is coming along nicely. I'm going to tweak this pattern a bit, plus I have two styles lined up for patterning tomorrow.

Last update and progress on the cycling shoes

Last week I received the new last samples as expected and I've been working working steadily with those. I've also been making significant progress on the bike shoe last and sample shoes. So, kind of a long update!
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I am so far pleased with the pointed flat last (it really needs a new name!) - it seems to only need mild tweaking. I am working on some samples for fitting (more on that after the pictures).



I do need people to test this last on (three, preferably) - size 8. If you are in Chicago and you think you are a good candidate with healthy size 8 feet (6 1/2-ish in mens') please contact me at: erickw (at) riotgeer (dot) com to discuss the particulars. I'll make a dedicated post after I've made some samples up.
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The Guntons' (which I was very excited to work with again) are being vexing - and need some extra work. I like this toe so very much, so hopefully I'll be able to shake out the issues soon.



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The cycling shoe last has been going very well - I made some final tweaks to it after the last fit model, so I'm confident to have copies made for use. Until then, I've remodeled it's mate and I'm working on a working sample:




I've only cut and assembled a single shoe, since I want to check for surprises. This orange leather is something I've been hoarding for a number of years - I think it will be difficult to get more of it (sorry for the tease). On the other hand, this shoe might be a good candidate for the crust leather I was experimenting with last spring. The temperament of the crust was too firm for what I originally wanted to do with it - but perfect for this, I think!

I am continuing the external stiffeners from the last mock-up - I should have this reasonably close to finished this weekend. One of the guys at my bike shop fits this last, but I'd love to try it on additional people - if you are interested and wear a size 10 medium width (11 1/2-ish womens'), please contact me.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued + lasts!

Update on the cycling shoes- I've made up a fitter on the newly remodeled last- I think I'm pretty happy with it, but tomorrow I'll try it out on one or two of the folks at my bike shop- I should be able to make up a working sample on this last. I'm not exactly looking forward to fixing the mate to this last since it was a pretty dramatic alteration. I'd hold out to be able to have it copied by my last maker- but I'm not feeling that patient!

This morning I got confirmation that my last samples are indeed on their way! I'm pretty ecstatic to see them later this week.

So, expect to see some pictorial updates by the end of the week.

In other news, my neighbors and I are starting to get organized for an open studio day on Halloween - once there are details, I will post.

Last Progress

I talked to my last maker yesterday and he thinks he'll get my samples out today (fingers crossed!). According to his measurements the "Princess" measures quite a bit wider than I calculated - that's why I'm getting samples - at least it's some information I can compare with the process I use.

Also yesterday, I threw a heel stiffener onto the fitter model for the bike shoe last, so I can get a little bit better information off of it. A few of the guys at my bike shop tried it on. The results were interesting and also caused me to reexamine my assessment of the fit on myself.

Today, I experimented with some ideas I had for taking measurements from the foot and the last and apply better information. After fairly extensive reshaping of the last it measures true to a 10D:



This weekend I'll redraft the patterns and make a new fitter. If all goes well, I still need to reshape the mate to this one. Hopefully I'll have some WIP to show off on Monday or Tuesday.

WIP- Cycling Shoes, continued

Today I finished the preliminary patterns and cut this upper for testing. It still needs some tweaking, but it is unlined with an external counter and toe-box. The main body is a perforated cowhide I found at the discount fabric store and the vamp reinforcement is punched for decoration and to expose the perfs:



Experimenting with a decorative stitch for shaping the back curve:


For some really neat decorative stitching on footwear- check out the site of a former student of mine who is studying in London: Michelle Quick

WIP- Cycling Shoes

While I am waiting on the samples of the Gunton and "____" lasts, I've been working a little bit towards progress on an athletic style last. I have a stock last from my last maker that I've heavily modified that I hope is a good candidate for the cycling shoes I've been poking and prodding at on a very irregular basis. This quick fit model shows promise and I can start on a new working prototype:



This is just some of the first steps for fit which must be verified before investing in more expensive materials and techniques (composites and clipless pedal systems).

I am also experimenting with getting information from an existing pair of shoes that I felt fit me pretty good- this I can use as a base-line for original lasts, since fit can be an ephemeral goal sometimes.

WIP- last making, continued

On Friday I finished the new flat last model, as well as finally putting some work into correcting some issues with the Gunton last. They are both on their way to my last-maker to get sample pairs turned- once I figure out how many sizes I can actually afford to try out (I have one or two people interested in the Gunton, maybe?).






Once again, I'll be hoping for a couple of feet to test the fit of the flat last (size 8 and _?). Fitting is focusing on the flat last, as I hope to do some lightweight slipper/casual shoes that I can produce relatively inexpensively, even as one-offs. The shape of he Gunton really requires heavier leathers and robust constructions that I will have to limit to semi-custom.

I have yet to decide on a name for the flat last- in a rush to pack it up, I named it Princess, but I'm not remotely thrilled with that. I like the idea of using a family name, like with the Gunton - if any family type people actually read this blog, I'm taking suggestions - the more obscure the better?!

WIP- last making

Distracted from Etsy projects (boo, me!) - this is a new last that I've been poking and prodding at:




Perhaps not obvious from the pictures, I've also modified the woodworking bench so that the vise is mounted to a leg for better stability, my various rasps have useful homes, and there's space (currently occupied by random chunks of wood and lasts) for a special knife for shaping lasts.

Done!

These are going to Michigan with me tomorrow to meet their new home- Here's hoping I got the fit right!

Ties should go up on Etsy tonight (thank you hurricane force winds on Friday!)- other items will be finished and put up when I get back from MI next week.

Q C

MacBackPack

After a long absence, I'm back. The spring semester is over, so I have time to get more aggressive with some of my projects.

I recently finished up a backpack built for a 17" Macbook with sleeve.



The leather is a medium weight harness latigo. Once I got the pattern settled, one of the hardest parts was getting the right weight stitching- closer to a harness weight cord, than sewing thread that I usually use for footwear. It really inspired me to do some more designs based around the construction details.



I used rivets for the first time as both decorative and functional details.





Doing the internal pocket proved more vexing than expected- probably more to do with the fact that I haven't built a fabric pocket with a zipper in close to ten years:


So with summer here, I should be adding more projects to the blog.

Until next time,

Erick

NAHBS Pictures!

I've gotten the pictures edited and labeled, here is a link to 137 pictures from the show.

North American Handmade Bicycle Show!

I'm very, very excited about my early birthday present- on Saturday Morning I'm hopping on a bus to Indianapolis to attend the North American Handmade Bicycle Show.

I first heard about this show last year when it was in Portland.Lots of very pretty bicycles should be on hand if last years examples are anything to go by- that's where that bull-horned bamboo bike from Calfee was shown. Many makers that I only know from trawling the web will be there with the very best examples of their craft on display- I's so excited....

I am bringing my camera, and I plan on taking many pictures which will find their way here.

Erick

P.S.: I've made a few changes to the blog- There are links to the blogs I read regularly, and I'm trying out the "followers" widget.

Veldtschoen Photo essay

Here is the completed photo essay on building a veldtschoen-or stitchdown- style boot:



This is not a perfect example, but I'll point out some general aspects of the veldtschoen:

This is a very casual construction, especially without mechanical assists used in factory production and it has a distinct look that exaggerates the shape of the toe.

Construction:
The primary feature is the upper being flanged out to create a shelf for the upper to be sewn to a midsole- sometime referred to as a runner. In most constructions, a particular lasting pincer is used, which has a hammer to lever over the last bottom and pull it tight. Without this assist it is extremely difficult to get the vamp area tight to the last- even after using some questionable aids....

The last for a veldtschoen should have a distinct feather edge all round, with a full arch. When machine stitching the midsole on, it is desirable to have a bevel all round the feather edge of the last. As in the photos, the shoe is presented to the outsole stitcher "bottoms-up". The work table presses against the shoe upper and the curved awl passes through a hole in it, which is set back between 1/16th and 1/8th inch from the leading edge. The bevel in the last allows the work table to press the upper into the void. This offsets the distance of the awl passing through the hole, placing the stitch right at the crease. The photos don't illustrate this adequately and will need to be supplemented with illustrations later.

Aesthetics:
Depending on the leathers chosen, some construction details- both desirable and not- will show through in the end.
Many shoemakers employ side linings in both cemented and sewn footwear- this is not very practical in this application and soft leathers are going to give it a "slipper-ish" look to the way the material holds the foot. It is not unusual for Veldtschoens to be unlined.

Other leather choices will certainly offer different results- I will certainly build this way again. Given the leathers I go back to time and time again, my inclination is to focus on my previously favored variation.

I hope you find this informative. Comments- whether for clarification- or correction- are welcome.

Complicated Patterns Plus More Last Remodeling

Continuing my exploration of athletic style uppers, here is my latest work-in-progress:


The beige leather is some orthopedic hide I picked up several years ago- stretchy, but still heavy. Stains easily for that lived-in look sooner rather than later. The spongy hand made some of the edge stitching disagreeable

The rust-ish color is a totally random find from the ren-faire last summer. It's a split- the color caught my eye and it was dirt cheap. My students could tell you how I grumble about split leathers, but I may have to concede that it could have its uses.

I'm crossing my fingers that they make a good combination.
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Last remodeling- small update:

I am continuing the last remodeling as a demo for my students. The photo below shows the leather feathered to the last:

The changes to the bottom will necessitate re-contouring the sides and bottom shape.

Morning in Chicago

A couple of images of the city at dawn courtesy of my phone just a few days ago:




We get some interesting cloud formations at the lakefront. On some mornings it looks like downtown is sitting in front of a massive stage curtain.

A few months ago, I took this shot of high rises from the lakefront path:

New Concept Illustrations

A few recent projects for my portfolio, broken into a couple of entries.

First off, a pair of designs illustrated in marker and pencil on paper. As an exorcise in branding, I've worked Pumas branding into the construction. The two designs shared a color story, though one is distinctly more tongue in cheek. I worked through a couple of ideas for closures and settled on lacing for the trail runner. The yellow "cleats" I'm envisioning in a firmer material I'm calling a skeleton. Bottom drawings are still a WIP:

The trailosaurus uses a stretch fabric "sock" with a strap and pinch snap fastener. The aggressive cleats referencing teeth and bony protrusions on dinosaurs:

New Folding Boots

Before flying to Las Vegas, I finished up these new versions of the folding boot. This time, I used a wool blend felt and Horweens rust leather on the outside and the customers blue leather to line the shaft: